Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A cheap trick you could try there is to under drive it by putting on a larger pulley. I am pretty sure the Neo has a small diameter pulley for the water pump. You could try fitting one from a 32GTST or 32GTR which, if I'm not mistaken, is larger in diameter? which should slow it down a tad.

Worth a try if all else fails and certainly cheaper than pulling the head off....which should be the last port of call

heads off... motor is mint. good to see with the thrashing its had with 360 + rwkw on stock motor and e85 that the bores are perfect, pistons perfect and so is the chamber and valves.

no fault with HG or anything.. gonna crack test the head tho might still b a slight fault thats hard to see

Would the engine oil be milky yet if it was HG fail? and would the water have oil going into it?

are you bleeding with the heater on to open those pipes up (if relevant / still have heater pipes)?

regarding pump stress going through many cores - I wouldn't worry about that - I have a standard rb25 and its pumping water to the rear of a buggy through like 8 metres of pipe total and about 8-10 bends, also the rad is sitting higher than the engine so it has to pump all the way up there. does it fine :D

if the water level is going down before its going into overflow bottle, it has to be going somewhere, no leaks around back of block or near the inlet mani area? blowing any smoke?

edit: looks like i missed a few pages of the thread, woops. haha

Edited by turael

you can have head gasket issues without leaking oil into water and vice versa. no its not blowing any smoke and no leaks. its actually pushing the coolant OUT of the rad into the overflow and not sucking it back in.

dropped head off to Rhemac and they seem to think its highly likely theres combustion pressure eascaping into a watter gallery under high load.

you can have head gasket issues without leaking oil into water and vice versa. no its not blowing any smoke and no leaks. its actually pushing the coolant OUT of the rad into the overflow and not sucking it back in.

had the same issue with mine, turned out to be a stuffed clutch hub on the fan. Coolant would spew into overflow and boil, then suck it all back in.

How old is the one on yer car?

ive changed it several times.. but yeah you could be onto something. i wanted to do AU thermo fans but have no room to do so :(

Only reason i found out was it was happening to my old 20, then replaced it with the 3lt and the same symptoms happened with the new motor. No airflow through a fresh system..had me wondering. Only old thing i reused was the clutch.

Factory cooling works fine though for a lot of thrashing as long as its left intact, shroud included.

yeah only reason i cant fit anything atm is due to the 52mm rad... might go back to a stock GTR rad and see how that goes.

at the end of the day at least ive done MLS and ARP bolts so motor should be even more reliable then it already is lol.

if i still cant solve the cooling issue... i'll run the radiator in the boot. and run a massive ducting system with huge fans pulling the air thro lol

hmm looks like a little pinging at some stage, obviously not too bad though.

I have finally sorted the cooling problems in my race car, no problems running indefiantely at race speed these days (1hr +).

I am not sure what fixed the issues but here are the things I did for cooling:

standard fan and shroud

n1 water pump

greddy overdriven water pump pulley

new viscous coupling for fan

china 40mm radiator

1.3 bar radiator cap

nismo thermostat

with all of those things, water temps were just acceptable. when it last ran in that spec it was overheating badly but that turned out to be a water leak (so farking annoyed I checked everything except a simple pressure check)

since then i changed to:

pwr twin pass radiator

moved oil cooler from in front of the radiator to the ps guard.

shrounding the radiator to the chassis and front bar entry

now it is absolutely fine. in fact i changed back to a standard thermostat because it was running too cool for my liking.

they are the facts. my guess is the most important of all of the changes was proper ducting from the front bar entrance to the radiator. if i was air, i would find any way to go around the radiator instead of through it. no reason to think the pwr radiator was any better than the china one, especially not for $800 and 2 mistakes between the order and what I received :mad:

wait wheres the pinging? that white shit on the crown of the piston is just powder.. it wipes off. think its moisture from idling befire i ripped the head off.

but thanks for the list... i will carbon copy it (90% of the way there as it is) and see how i go

We had a chinese aluminium radiator in a 31 GTS-X with RB25 track car, exacxtly the same thing, blowing out water from overflow, over heating, thought was head, or gasket, or a million other things.

Do you know what it was in the end? The radiator cap neck was taller than the STD item, so STD or skyline aftermarket radiator caps wern't actually sealing off, i noticed this and put a thick o-ring in there for tempory measures (which worked), have since made up an alloy ring to sit into neck, so that there was pressure on the spring and it could seal. Simple Re-bleed, end of problem.

This may be completely unrelated and it maybe is your head, but worth a look

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...