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hey Guys!

All feed back is greatly appreciated!!! please some1 who knows about this please help.

Decided to fully flush radiator in my r33, drained heater hose, bottom hose and hose where thermo goes and took out thermo. rinsed all hoses while car running, then turned it off, put back together. Started the car with rad cap off and undone which i think is bleeder screw ( to the left and up abit from the engine oil filler cap) poured coolant in untill rad cap was full still kept cap off. car been running 10 - 15 min water temp stayed at 80, coolant started to squirt now and again but not a continous flow from which i think is the bleeder, i then put the screw back on went for 5 minute drive water temp crept up to 95!! What have i done wrong??? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR ADVISE GUYS!!

I will try and get a pic asap of this screw i mean. thanks!

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havent bled a coolant system before, but logically any bleeding from a bleedscrew/nipple should be a continuous flow as spluttering is normally a sign of air pockets.

Depending on how hot it is, is it possible to attach some clear hose to the bleed screw? if so do that and have the hose run up hill before turning down to a catch can.

Any air should bubble up and out while the fluid will not flow over the up hill section and should stop air coming back in, jobs done when you just get fluid but no air pumping through. (this works for brakes... dont know about coolant).

  • 4 months later...

What you did (flushed your radiator) is a very good idea. Our cars parts specifically radiator are needed to be flushed religiously. When we are flushing our radiator it is like we are giving our cars a bath and because of that our engine are being refreshed. Summer driving requires a fresh radiator that can help your car's motor overcome the heat. Keeping it clean keeps that motor operating. Understanding how to flush your radiator and replace the antifreeze before that scorching summer trip will conserve you cash. The proof is here: How to flush your radiator. I hope this will help.

1.

Did you back flush the radiator or flush it in the normal direction? Did you use radiator flush? Could the radiator be partially blocked or mostly blocked?

Using radiator flush can actually BLOCK your radiator if you aren't careful and back flush it properly. It is a good idea to remove the radiator pipes while cleaning out a system that may have a lot of gunk. When I "cleaned" my system all the gunk simply collected in the radiator :whoops: so I bought a new thicker dual core.

2.

It takes awhile to bleed the system properly.

Make sure the overflow hose flows properly, is not blocked or leaking (IMPORTANT).

Refill the overflow bottle to MAX line (if it has dropped this is a sign that there was/is air pockets)

Check the level in the radiator, it has probably dropped if their was air pockets. Refill if required.

Put on the radiator cap and Start the car again, let it warm up. Create a fast idle (wedge the throttle open a few mm). Crack open the top screw, then remove it completely for a few seconds and then put it back on, repeat a few times.

Eventually you will get a more steady trickle. You're done !

It help is you park on a slight uphill driveway.

Take it for a drive and check the overflow bottle for fluid dropping (only compare when cold!). Refulla s required. It might drop 1cm or so for the first few drives. This is removing the last few air bubbles.

If it keeps dropping then you have leakage problems.

If it gets to 95° then it either has quite a lot of air trapped or the radiator is partially blocked.

Edited by simpletool

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