Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR Bendix Pads?

gtargh

By gtargh,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Take the pad out, trace the shape on a piece of paper, then take it into the shop and compare your tracing to the diagrams in the listing.

(I wouldn't be surprised if it is the same as the others.)

gtargh Contributor

gtargh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

apparently bendix dont make pads for a 33 gtr, or a 34 dont think, just a 32 non vpsec (non brembos I guess)

nissan factory pads are about $800 for the fronts and $1200ish for the rear, so I gotta find an alternative :)

cheapest ive been able to find so far is $200 for the front and $500 for the rears from a jap importer

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

they dont do the fronts....but the rears are the same as a BMW, or audi ...not sure which one....its some euro shitbox anyway...but dont buy them...i would suggest getting original ones or project U or something japanese....the other ones are crap

Spectrix Enthusiast

Spectrix

Posted
Posted

I found the bendix ultimates I had on the rex very dusty, they also tended to be squealy and non grippy when cold. I changed them with Lucas pads which seem to be quite good. They were cheaper than ultimates too, $120 a pair for fronts.

Can't help you out with part numbers though. It's not easy with anything later than r31 as many local stockists don't keep track of grey imports.

Edit - actually, R33 rear calipers are identicle to Subaru WRX MY01-MY04 rear calipers. That may help.

twinspot.jpg

r33ba.jpg

Cheers

Joey

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Yeah I rang Bendix yesterdat after brake pads (ive got a 32 GTR non vspec but with R33 Brembo callipers on the front) and was told they dont make any pads for any sort of Brembo calliper... interesting.

Im looking at EBC Greenstuff at $200 for the front and $90 for the rear (keep in mind ive still got the stock R32 GTR rear callipers).

Try racebrakes, www.racebrakes.com.au and enquire about their RB74 pads, im going to call them today. A friend just fitted them in his GTiR and claims no matter how hard he pushes the car and rides the brakes, the hotter they get, the better they keep getting (and we went for a pretty hard drive through the mountains on the weekend).

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
Try racebrakes, www.racebrakes.com.au and enquire about their RB74 pads, im going to call them today. A friend just fitted them in his GTiR and claims no matter how hard he pushes the car and rides the brakes, the hotter they get, the better they keep getting (and we went for a pretty hard drive through the mountains on the weekend).
Yup I can vouch for this, the hotter they get the more they beg to be used, the guys at RaceBrakes are tops too :D Don't forget to mention that you are part of 'SAU' :)
IMACUL8 Veteran

IMACUL8

Posted
Posted

Im with mist

Bendix are Ok for what they are - a budget performance pad... but nowhere near suitable enough for a GTR.

Look at alternatives such as Ferrodo, Endless or Green stuff.

Yes they cost more - but to many people are willing to spend mega dollas to make the car go fast - but tight wad on stopping quality.

Do your self a favour and give the bendix a miss.

Daniel

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted
Its great if they keep getting better.. but what are the RB74s like when they're cold?

There is much discussion relating to these pads incl Bendix, RB74's, Green Stuff etc...will have to find the link but I am sure someone will beat me to it...(Looks for the any key...)

mist Community Regular

mist

Posted
Posted

MADGT4 : Did u buy ur car from a dealer / importer? If u did, they probably fitted the cheapest (read:nastiest) pads they could find for compliancing, therefore the Bendix Ultimates will seem like a good upgrade. I went down that path too. Then I tried some real 'performance' brake pads (Endless for me) and the difference is night and day. Stopping is more important than going fast, no? :)

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
Its great if they keep getting better.. but what are the RB74s like when they're cold?

I don't mind them at all. They are "pretty good" when cold, and they only get better and better as they warm up. This is very subjective though, you might find they're as bad as the Ultimates. But with mine they seem to be perfectly fine by the time I get to the end of my street (braking for my driveway and the street corner).

Personally, I think the RB74's are the best bang for buck street pad out there, period. Yes the Ultimates are cheaper and if you don't take it to the track you may never get them to fade, but the amount of extra time you'll spend cleaning will quickly decrease their value.

Yes the RB74's get dusty, eventually, but so does any high performance pad. The difference is that the RB's get about the same amount of dust in 1000km as the Ultimates get in 100.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
Personally, I think the RB74's are the best bang for buck street pad out there, period. Yes the Ultimates are cheaper and if you don't take it to the track you may never get them to fade, but the amount of extra time you'll spend cleaning will quickly decrease their value.

Couldn't have put it better myself. I've been using RB74's on DBA4000 Slotted Rotors for about 8mths now and highly recommend them.

MADGT4 Mentor

MADGT4

Posted
Posted

Private and i dunno wot was on them at that time but yeah i will admit Bendix are awesome...

BUT like i said the dust is just really gettin to me...

I Clean my mags more than my car!

Was thinking about painting my mags black it is gettin that bad

  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...