Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a quick question I hope someone can help me with. I know that the R34 RB25DET NEO uses the exact same rods as the RB26DETT, but I just need to confirm that RB25DET rods to suit a non NEO R33 would also fit in an R34 RB25DET NEO. I am almost certain that they are the same size and are interchangeable between all of them, but I just need to make absolutely sure!

Reason being is that I am looking at purchasing this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270472689565&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

I understand that the pistons are completely different on the 25 NEO, but the guy can order the custom pistons to suit from CP. However I just want to make sure that the Eagle rods will no cause me any issues considering they are for a normal R33 RB25DET.

Also, any opinions on Eagle rods?

Thank you!!!! :action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/
Share on other sites

300rwkw, for now at least. Going with the forged internals is perhaps overkill for the moment, but I would rather do it properly now just in case I want more in the future. And the motor will be out anyway, so why not!

And I may have a buyer for my old rods, so I thought I may as well get the Eagle forges ones too. Each rod is about 150 grams lighter than the stock ones, surely that has to improve things somewhat.

Whats is your power goal mate?

And dam thats a good price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/#findComment-5705777
Share on other sites

For 350-400rwkw you'd just use GTR rods. Given 100's of built motors using them without a problem, for $200 - cant go wrong really.

If you wanna pay $1200 then by all means do it - but 400rwkw is a well proven "no issue" factor. Infact many have run 450rwkw through GTR rods without a problem for years. Key is using good rod bolts of course and less than 8500rpm it would seem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/#findComment-5705860
Share on other sites

I already have GTR rods as far as I understand! The engine is an R34 RB25DET Neo - I have been told that the Neo uses GTR rods? Am I incorrect in this thinking?

The main reason I am looking at getting the Eagle rods with the CP pistons is that the extra cost is minimal. And I was going to get some ARP rod bolts in any case for the rebuild. These are included in the price, so I think I am getting the Eagle rods for almost nothing.

In addition to that I have a friend with an R33 GTR. He is currently rebuilding it, and needs new standard rods. I could sell him my rods for a few bucks as I understand the Neo rod is the same as a GTR RB26DETT rod.

My initial question though is, are RB25DET rods interchangeable with RB25DET Neo rods, keeping in mind the pistons are different and are not interchangeable.

Anyway thanks for all the help so far :cheers:

For 350-400rwkw you'd just use GTR rods. Given 100's of built motors using them without a problem, for $200 - cant go wrong really.

If you wanna pay $1200 then by all means do it - but 400rwkw is a well proven "no issue" factor. Infact many have run 450rwkw through GTR rods without a problem for years. Key is using good rod bolts of course and less than 8500rpm it would seem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/#findComment-5705875
Share on other sites

300rwkw, for now at least. Going with the forged internals is perhaps overkill for the moment, but I would rather do it properly now just in case I want more in the future. And the motor will be out anyway, so why not!

And I may have a buyer for my old rods, so I thought I may as well get the Eagle forges ones too. Each rod is about 150 grams lighter than the stock ones, surely that has to improve things somewhat.

BAAAAD IDEA

Thats like saying I will buy a 50 footer incase it floods again :rolleyes:

Wait UNTIL your motor goes pop THEN forge it if you have fully researched the costs and make an INFORMED decision to forge it :domokun:

Why waste your moneys..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/#findComment-5706042
Share on other sites

The motor did go pop!! Well the head gasket went pop at least.

The bores / pistons look OK visually, but as the motor is out of the car I think i will rebuild it anyway. It's got 100,000k's on it and I want it to last a while, particularly with the increase in power. The additional cost for the forged bits is minimal in the scheme of things, and as I said I am effectively getting the rods for free.

BAAAAD IDEA

Thats like saying I will buy a 50 footer incase it floods again :rolleyes:

Wait UNTIL your motor goes pop THEN forge it if you have fully researched the costs and make an INFORMED decision to forge it :domokun:

Why waste your moneys..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/#findComment-5706218
Share on other sites

Thank you to everyone for all the info :cheers:

Sounds like yes R33 rods can be used in an R34 (which has different pistons) :)

So I should be all good. In any case I have noticed the seller also has an RB26 kit for the same price, I will just get that to be sure, with the custom Neo pistons instead.

Read his question, read my answer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356666-rods-rods-rods/#findComment-5706236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).
    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
×
×
  • Create New...