Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currently undertaking a big overhaul of my 33 GTST and part of that has been adding a new interior. While I had everything out I decided I may as well do all the soundproofing I have read so much about and well......went a little crazy and have pretty much covered every space I can think of within the cabin including the roof lining and behing the back seat.

The only thing is I have mostly used 10mm closed cell sound proofing foam (Except for the front doors which has both foad and proper dynamat)and this has been glued onto the car using contact adhesive so it will NOT come off IMO.

Some pics so you can see what I am talking about

IMG_0328.jpg

IMG_0384.jpg

IMG_0385.jpg

IMG_0386.jpg

IMG_0387.jpg

IMG_0389.jpg

IMG_0391.jpg

Now I am at the stage of cleaning up the boot and decised to line it in the foam as well because believe it or not it actuall does kill off a LOT of road noise.

My mrs reminded my that I have two 12" subs in a box in our spare room which although almost brand new have been sitting around for about 7 years. They are nothing special but I thought they would add an extra bit of bass/low down sound if I was to throw them in the boot (With extra amp of course)

As I am really not that well educated with car stereo stuff could the knowledgeable people around here please advise me as to wether I am wasting my time because of all the extra soond proofing between the boot and the cabin (back seat area)puuting the subs in the boot. Will I actually be able to hear them or have I sound proofed myself into a corner so to speak.

Thanks

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357065-am-i-wasting-my-time/
Share on other sites

I'd be inclined to sound proof the whole boot (if weight isn't a question) and leave between the boot and cabin. In some areas of high panel resonance I'd heard of people slicking weights to the resonating area with a strong 3M tape to change the resonant frequency to something that isn't as affected by road noise. Dunno if it works but, haven't seen any true test results.

Thanks mate but that's the problem, the area between the cabin and the boot is already soundproofed and the foam has been stuck on to the bit behind the back seat with contact adhesive.....bloody strong stuff that will never let go.

Im just unsure wether I have blocked out too much of noise that will come from the boot to make the subs usefull

I can tell you that you have done a good job of it. that siad IF you can get the foam off - do so. if not - pull the rear speakers out. that will help things to a point.

A heat gun will remove anything :P

Then eucalyptus will remove the sticky crap.

However there is no harm in trying it out how you have it. - I've always wondered if you'd get superior bass (SPL wise) if you had the box mounted deep in the boot, subs facing backwards in a ported box with ports tuned to come through the parcel shelf. :) Doo it :D

Only way you'd truly know (again SPL wise) would have been doing a road test with sound proofing everywhere cept between cab and boot, with a dB meter. Then testing again WITH proofing between can and boot. I like how thorough you've been, the mid and top end should sound great. Get road tyres that focus on low noise as well? :)

Edited by GTRPowa

I can tell you that you have done a good job of it. that siad IF you can get the foam off - do so. if not - pull the rear speakers out. that will help things to a point.

Thanks for the kind words I was wondering wether I overdid it as I was kind of winging it!!

Correct me if I'm wrong cause I am in no way well educated with car sound but wouldn't removing the rears kind of make things sound uneven?

Maybe I'll just chuck the box in and see how it goes, no biggy as I have it here anyway and it does have two of the port thingys built in. I might be able to rig something up to get the ports comming out at the parcel tray what do you think?

GTRPowa, forgot to mention earlier when you mentioned soundproofing the boot as well, I will definately be doing it. That's the good thing about the foam, it ways bugger all. I bought around 7metres of the 10mm and 5.5m of the 5mm and all up it widths less than 5kg. For example the two front doors in the proper stuff is heavier that the entire car lined in foam including a second layer inside the front doors.

That's the good thing about the foam, it ways bugger all. I bought around 7metres of the 10mm and 5.5m of the 5mm and all up it widths less than 5kg.

...and can't hear screams coming from the boot (whilst disposing of wife who should have reminded you earlier about spare 12" subs)??? :P

...and can't hear screams coming from the boot (whilst disposing of wife who should have reminded you earlier about spare 12" subs)??? :P

Hahaha, exactly Terry.

I forgot all about the subs it's been so long. I've done such a good job of keeping the car noise out of the cabin that I dunno wether I want to go backwards for the sake of a bit of bass that will ultimately produce rattles and vibrations????

Maybe I should just pit some good 6x9's in the back for the extra bass

I did exactly what your doing now to my Beetle yrs ago. it made a huge difference in sound and heat inside the car (external oil coolers and thermos under the back parcel shelf and solid mounted engine and gearbox). it made it almost bearable in daily use.

go the subs, and leave some nice 6's in the back. 6x9's are over rated. and aparently a bit of a squeeze in a liner without making a whole new shelf or spacers etc.(don't cut the parcel shelf itself)

Edited by boiracer

a sound proof car is fine, bass is non directional below certain freq. you will still feel it shake the car, you can vent it it behind the rear guards between the boot and rear seat sides, if your creative. or remove the rear speakers and replace the grills again. then you will hear it fine. my car is even more soundproof then that ,

I moved my rear speakers mids and tweeters over and ported (tuned properly)the bass thru the factory holes right from the sub box. so if your creative you can do it with ease. notice the rear deck is now fiberglass molding of a factory one then modified . but no metal was cut in the car for any of the system. so not defectable !!!

6x9s suck, and cutting the holes is a structual defect !!!

Dave074

What you have done is looking good.

It is not overkill; I have done way more deadening on our 33 than you did.

I would highly recommend removing the oval shape panel behind the back seat, there is a huge difference to the amount of sound that you can get out of the boot :-)

I have seen a few people mount 6x9’s in the back but remember do not cut the rear panel. Also if you are going to mount the subs in the boot give the 6x9’s a miss. A set of 6 inch will be more than enough for rear fill.

90% of the time I do not have rear speakers in at all, now that I have to get the baby seat in the back they are pretty much only in at shows.

Anyway keep up the good work

Simon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...