Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got mine today too! And damn are they heavy!

Of course I've also had my install time on Saturday cut, so we will have to see what happens... Only a couple of hours to do properly right?

Great stuff guys!:thumbsup:

Wow, S.A. really seems to take quite a bit longer we had bars delivered in QLD within 2 days...

Enjoy 'em; love to hear your feedback once fitted. And yep, only a couple of hours to fit.:cheers:

Cheers, Dale.

Got my set today... My cheapskate missus ends up giving them to me as a birthday present... :)

Now there's another layer of b-day wrapping paper around them... :)

Thanks heaps again, Dale, for organizing the whole thing...

Got my set today... My cheapskate missus ends up giving them to me as a birthday present... :)

Now there's another layer of b-day wrapping paper around them... :)

Thanks heaps again, Dale, for organizing the whole thing...

Lol @ opportunist missus!:whistling:

What my wrapping wasn't celebratory enough?:nyaanyaa:

Glad you guys have got yours now; I was getting a little worried!

Again, thanks to you all for your involvement; it's been a pleasure dealing with all of you. When it works as well as this one has; it makes all the effort worthwhile.:thumbsup:

Cheers, Dale.

Finally has some time to chuck the bars in this morning. What looked like a very simple & quick job has turned into a mongrel.

post-76144-0-23900900-1307155575_thumb.jpg

The bit hanging down with the tab bent over is supposed to hit up against a flat section on the bar so that you can undo the nut. Mine, however, has decided to come loose so it spins like a washer.

Now what to do? Maybe I need to take it somewhere to get a spot weld to hold it inplace. And that will probably bugger up the rubbers.... grrrr :angry:

What can't things just work like they're supposed to?

Finally has some time to chuck the bars in this morning. What looked like a very simple & quick job has turned into a mongrel.

post-76144-0-23900900-1307155575_thumb.jpg

The bit hanging down with the tab bent over is supposed to hit up against a flat section on the bar so that you can undo the nut. Mine, however, has decided to come loose so it spins like a washer.

Now what to do? Maybe I need to take it somewhere to get a spot weld to hold it inplace. And that will probably bugger up the rubbers.... grrrr :angry:

What can't things just work like they're supposed to?

Try a pair of multi grips on it to hold the washer firm. Thats what I have to do on mine.

Thanks for the suggestion Andy but I can't hold it tight enough. The nut is really stuck on there. I thought about vice grips also but I only own small cheap ones & so no good.

I'm just thinking now that maybe I could grind 2 flat surfaces so that I could get a spanner on it. Not a lot of room up in there for a grinder tho....

I did manage to get the rear sway bar on OK so the day wasn't a complete fail. Took me a couple of goes with the adjustable links to work out the best way for them to mount & I had a few other issues so the rear one took way longer than the front would have if it all worked first time LOL.

One of mine did that Leon, and I was able to spin the nut off with a rattle gun.

Once off, I just put a small tack with the TIG to lock the tab to the shaft, then quenched it to avoid heat damage to the joint. Worked fine.

Hate it when simple jobs turn into epics...

Edited by Daleo

One of mine did that Leon, and I was able to spin the nut off with a rattle gun.

Once off, I just put a small tack with the TIG to lock the tab to the shaft, then quenched it to avoid heat damage to the joint. Worked fine.

Hate it when simple jobs turn into epics...

I'm not fortunate enough to have a rattle gun at home & I seem to get more than my fair share of "epics" lol.

Well, my friendly mechanic let me use his hoist & tools today & I got it off with an air gun. Ended up grinding 2 flats for a spanner to neatly fit over. The thing is, when i went to put the bar on, the intact tab didn't extend past the edge because the new swaybar is bigger. So that side had to come off and 2 flats ground into the shaft as well.

What has everyone else done? Am I the only person who has found the (dodgy) mechanism Nissan designed to allow you to remove & tighten the bar to the linkages doesn't fit the new ones?

On a different note, WOW what a difference :thumbsup: .

Oh, and what has everyone done about preload on the rear bar? I asked my mechanic/race engineer sic, & he said it should have no load/tension when sitting on it's wheels.

I set mine like that when jacked up, so naturally now it's on the ground, there would be some load on the rear bar. Does everyone concur with his advice, or does it make 2 fifths of stuff all difference?

? Threre's no load on the bar at rest. It works on a twisting motion so if both wheels and the car are level there is no tension. It swivels in the bushes - they should be lubed with the special stuff that came with the kit. Say you go over a judder bar square on... both the wheels go up and down in unison ...the sway bar has no effect whatever.

Well, my friendly mechanic let me use his hoist & tools today & I got it off with an air gun. Ended up grinding 2 flats for a spanner to neatly fit over. The thing is, when i went to put the bar on, the intact tab didn't extend past the edge because the new swaybar is bigger. So that side had to come off and 2 flats ground into the shaft as well.

What has everyone else done? Am I the only person who has found the (dodgy) mechanism Nissan designed to allow you to remove & tighten the bar to the linkages doesn't fit the new ones?

On a different note, WOW what a difference :thumbsup: .

On the ones I had made; you could orient the tab to sit in the unused hole next to the one the thread goes through.

No one else has commented, and Jules never had this issue so maybe that's the way to go?

Oh, and what has everyone done about preload on the rear bar? I asked my mechanic/race engineer sic, & he said it should have no load/tension when sitting on it's wheels.

I set mine like that when jacked up, so naturally now it's on the ground, there would be some load on the rear bar. Does everyone concur with his advice, or does it make 2 fifths of stuff all difference?

There should be no load on the bar at rest. If you set the link lengths before fitting; you may inadvertently put preload on the bar due to;

1; Chassis twist (Car bodies and suspension are never perfect; close, but not perfect)

2; Bar twist (again; they're never perfect)

3; Spring sag

To ensure the bar is unloaded;

1; Lock up one link and leave the other one loose; doesn't matter which one.

2; Get the car on a flat, level surface, slide under and twist the loosened link barrel (yellow anodised bit) in one direction, until you feel slight resistance.

3; Mark one flat with a texta dot, or a mark, and rotate the barrel in the opposite direction, counting the turns until you feel the same resistance as the first time.

4; Count how many turns you made, then halve the number.

5; Rotate the barrel back that number of turns, then lock up the nuts; without moving the barrel.(you can put the car up on stands or ramps to do this bit; it doesn't matter, just don't turn the barrel) You are half way between the two extremes now.

Sway Bar is now completely unloaded.thumbsup.gif

? Threre's no load on the bar at rest. It works on a twisting motion so if both wheels and the car are level there is no tension. It swivels in the bushes - they should be lubed with the special stuff that came with the kit. Say you go over a judder bar square on... both the wheels go up and down in unison ...the sway bar has no effect whatever.

Bingo.thumbsup.gif

On the ones I had made; you could orient the tab to sit in the unused hole next to the one the thread goes through.

Ahh, I never checked if that hole would match up with the tab. Nevermind, I've modded it so it'll be fine from now on.

I get the principle of the sway bar re both wheels moving over a bump makes no difference, only individually. So I suppose as long as the linkages are the same length, there really isn't any problem to worry about (yes I greased the bushes so it moves freely :rolleyes: ). Providing there's not clearance issues, in which case you would need to raise/lower as the case may be.

Mmm, if I'd given it a minutes thought I wouldn't have wasted my time, nor anyone else's, with a stupid post..... doh

Got these fitted today, look great, thanks Dale!

Rear bar was an issue, not a lot of clearance around my exhaust, but it *just* fit! :cheers:

Front one was a bit of a bitch with the links and mounting points, but not too bad. No issues with rubbing/grinding.

Are there adjustable links available for the front?

So far I don't feel much of a difference, but going for a hills run tomorrow to see how it is on a windy road. I have a feeling my stuffed stock shocks won't be helping the situation, so have to bump coilovers up the list...

I didn't end up getting the adjustable rear toe arms installed. Dad and I did the install in his workshop and he recommended I get them to fit it when I next get a wheel alignment. I think I'll do that in the next week or two, as we did notice some feathering on the rear tyres that we didn't notice at the service around 1000-2000 km ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...