Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been seeing an increase in skylines in the area and thought It might not be a bad idea to see who's about and what they are doing with there car's.

So list it out like this:

Car: 1992 R32 GTST.

Colour: White with black boot and bonnet.

Mods:Pod, Exhaust, Coilpacks, FMIC, Nistune.

Plans for the next Mods: Turbo and Injectors

Owned for: 8 months

Any other imports(this can be current or previously owned): R33 GTST 300zx TT

anything else you can think of feel free to add, Wouldn't mind getting a north area cruise group happening or even a meet and greet.

Yeah man I have a r32 gtr silver no. Plates is slo26 but I live in kallangur mods r twin t517z kls low mount manifolds 3.5 inch dumps PFC 740cc injectors splitfire coils sard fuel pressure reg denso pump twin z32 afm boost 2 twin plate osgiken clutch the only problem is there's a noise in the head maybe bent valves so that's what's next on the list can't wait to get it fixed then I'll have the 300awkw monster back on the road

we just purchased an 1993 R33 GTS25T 4 door turbo

its silver and auto (missus cant drive a manual and it will be somewhat of a daily for her)

getting it rego'd next week

its stock as a rock except a turbo timer

even has the factory casette deck and an air purifier in the parcel shelf!!

we are at Narangba

I drive a 1990 MX83 cressida with a 1jz in it

its also silver with a big PWR front mount hanging out the front

has big single turbo running 18psi and a 3k high stall auto (going to manual as soon as I can afford it) 3" exhaust with twin 3" pipes(drift style)

good fun suprising the kids around here haha

I live in the north as well and own a wine red R32 GTS-T. I Have owned this car for about 10 years nows. I just can't let go.

Mods - PWR radiator, GTR Injectors, z32 afm, Bosch 040, Returned ecu, HKS GT-RS turbo, Tein SS Jap spec suspension with EDFC, cusco LSD 2-way.

Engine is healthy but is leaking oil out of tapet covers again Grrr.

Car make a fare amount of power at 23psi but I have never dynoed it to get the true rwkws reading.

I will be getting a new EBC and nistune very shortly and next year maybe sway-bars and cams.

Edited by RedDrifter

we just purchased an 1993 R33 GTS25T 4 door turbo

its silver and auto (missus cant drive a manual and it will be somewhat of a daily for her)

getting it rego'd next week

its stock as a rock except a turbo timer

even has the factory casette deck and an air purifier in the parcel shelf!!

we are at Narangba

I drive a 1990 MX83 cressida with a 1jz in it

its also silver with a big PWR front mount hanging out the front

has big single turbo running 18psi and a 3k high stall auto (going to manual as soon as I can afford it) 3" exhaust with twin 3" pipes(drift style)

good fun suprising the kids around here haha

Nice R33 is a good choice my missus wants one because I used to have one and she loved it.

I want to see this cressida it sounds badass

the cressida is pretty ordinary in the looks department

but it goes ok

need to get an aftermarket computer for it to really tap its potential

just picked up a set of Bigwin side skirts and rear bar for it today just need to get them repaired (has some damage) and need a front bar

all in good time.

The skyline will get the usual mods once its registered and just replace things as they break

I live in the north as well and own a wine red R32 GTS-T. I Have owned this car for about 10 years nows. I just can't let go.

Mods - PWR radiator, GTR Injectors, z32 afm, Bosch 040, Returned ecu, HKS GT-RS turbo, Tein SS Jap spec suspension with EDFC, cusco LSD 2-way.

Engine is healthy but is leaking oil out of tapet covers again Grrr.

Car make a fare amount of power at 23psi but I have never dynoed it to get the true rwkws reading.

I will be getting a new EBC and nistune very shortly and next year maybe sway-bars and cams.

Welcome to the thread, That turbo is some seriously expensive kit man, How does it perform?

the cressida is pretty ordinary in the looks department

but it goes ok

need to get an aftermarket computer for it to really tap its potential

just picked up a set of Bigwin side skirts and rear bar for it today just need to get them repaired (has some damage) and need a front bar

all in good time.

The skyline will get the usual mods once its registered and just replace things as they break

Looks are not everything. I am planning on doing a sleeper as my next car.

Welcome to the thread, That turbo is some seriously expensive kit man, How does it perform?

Looks are not everything. I am planning on doing a sleeper as my next car.

I bought the kit from Nengun 4 years ago when the AUD was strong against the yen. Picked the kit up for a real good price.

The turbo is as big as you would want to go for a street RB20.

Response vs power output is incredible.

well our skyline should be rego'd on friday woot

started it on the weekend and it made the rattle sound at the front near the timimg belt cover area so i am guessing its in need of a belt/ tensioner/ bearing change from all the youtube and forum reading ive done????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...