Nos To Be Used As A Top-End Booster Only?

[cobrAA]

Hello!

After reading quite a bit on the topic, trying to dig info on jdm with nos and twin turbos jdm withs nos. I still feel like I need some help.:sadwavey: Most info I get is big domestic car or super laggy turbo that NOS is used to spool them up quicker.. like R.I.P.S does:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/75197-r-i-p-s-nitrous-install-5.html

What I'm looking for my car is to increase the top-end with NOS ( past 5k up to 7.5).

As you might be aware, the GTSS are very quick and I love the response so adding NOS at the low-end would end up in a waste because I'm sure the kick will simply be too much ( lost of traction too). I might also end up breaking my tranny or my motor a lot sooner.

So I rather play safe and add the NOS as a top-end power adder.

1) Does it make sens or my idea wouldn't work?

2) Then, I was wondering which brands should I get but from the RIPS threads, if these guy use NOS, I can't see why I wouldn't use them lol!

3) Now, I wanted to know, because safety first! What can I do to protect from any premature damage occuring on my car? A progressive electronic controller?

Thanks for your input!

[Nee-san]

f**k the nitrous off, I don't think your in Australia but you can try  running it on a better fuel (RACE) or get bigger turbos.

Edited March 15, 2011 by Nee-san

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

+1, looks like ur looking for a quicker way to kill your motor, use e85 fuel or get -5 turbos if u want top end

is the car being raced as gtss is already quick for street duty?

[blue_vl_t]

make no mistake, nitrous is great stuff, i say go for it, there are so many sob stories people will try and tell you, its not safe etc. but the reality is if you have a correctly, well thought out setup, with an engine that is strong enough for the hp being produced, its all good.

Using nitrous as you say is what it really was intended for originally, not bringing turbos on song, (although that works well too) just start with smaller jets and keep an eye on the AFR's, nice and rich for safety. let us see the results too if you go through with it.

[PM-R33]

1) Does it make sens or my idea wouldn't work?

Yep definetely will work for what you want.

2) Then, I was wondering which brands should I get but from the RIPS threads, if these guy use NOS, I can't see why I wouldn't use them lol!

For most setups all the brands are just as good as each other. I run a NOS brand one in mine. The main differences between them is the solenoids/jets/nozzles which obviously can be replaced with better quality items down the track should you choose. When my solenoids get a bit old I will replace them with pulsoids from the UK.

3) Now, I wanted to know, because safety first! What can I do to protect from any premature damage occuring on my car? A progressive electronic controller?

This is the key factor. Having a safe setup. The horror stories you hear are from unsafe setups.

What ECU is in the car? It might be able to control a nitrous setup.

Otherwise I would suggest using a window switch that activates and deactivates the nitrous setup at pre determined RPM points once armed. A controller like this will also allow you to have it only activated when at full throttle - TPS above 95% or such. This means you can get rid of the mechanical switch that the kits come with.

Download a NOS installation manual and have a read through it. It will give you some of the basics to know about with the two most important being:

1 - Do not hit limiter with nitrous engaged

2 - Do not engage nitrous without full throttle

Other good safety precautions (one that I still want to get) is a fuel pressure safety shut of switch. Basically if you lose fuel pressure you will put pure nitrous into your engine and melt it. So the safety switch disengages the nitrous solenoid if fuel pressure falls below a certain pressure.

Have a search for some of my posts in the Forced Induction area on nitrous. I made a few long ones in the past with some good explanations of the basics.

There is a lot to it and a lot to learn but the more you know, the safer your car will be.

[cobrAA]

Thanks for the info.

Here, where I lives, E85 is VERY HARD to come by, a lot more than nitrous, Hence why it's not an option for me.

Someone told me my idea might NOT WORK because I would be maxing my turbos and once they are at their max ( close to 25psi), you can't blow more air so the nitrous would get wasted.

It sound interesting but is it true?

And when I consider camshafts are worth 800$ and gives a 10whp gain at the end but moves the powerband while I can get nitrous for 600$ with a 50whp gain on a 55HP jet. If you take the proper safety caution, I can't see how NOS can be as bad as you some of you say it.

[R31Nismoid]

-9 won't hold 25psi to 8,000rpm. they will hit 25psi though as they ramp up and taper off in upper RPM.

Considering you are using a stock motor, you are once again pushing beyond sensibility.

If you really do want it to last you are going to need to be much more sympathetic to a 15yo motor.

[PM-R33]

Thanks for the info.

Here, where I lives, E85 is VERY HARD to come by, a lot more than nitrous, Hence why it's not an option for me.

Someone told me my idea might NOT WORK because I would be maxing my turbos and once they are at their max ( close to 25psi), you can't blow more air so the nitrous would get wasted.

It sound interesting but is it true?

And when I consider camshafts are worth 800$ and gives a 10whp gain at the end but moves the powerband while I can get nitrous for 600$ with a 50whp gain on a 55HP jet. If you take the proper safety caution, I can't see how NOS can be as bad as you some of you say it.

Nitrous is air. Therefore it doesn't matter if the turbo's are allready maxed and can't push any more the nitrous is doing the rest of the job.

[cobrAA]

-9 won't hold 25psi to 8,000rpm. they will hit 25psi though as they ramp up and taper off in upper RPM.

Considering you are using a stock motor, you are once again pushing beyond sensibility.

If you really do want it to last you are going to need to be much more sympathetic to a 15yo motor.

I have my rev limiter set at 7.5k if it matters and I'm going for a refresh in 2 month.

[cobrAA]

Bought my zex kit.. we'll see how it goes.

[XRATED]

I first put nitrous on a GTR in 2005...

I've done a few kits and learnt some things over the years-

The biggest problem you will have is exhaust flow. The little housings on the -9's will not be able to flow much more gas than they allready are... Nitrous is (or should be as close to) injected into the manifold as a liquid, then expands into a gas to be ingested into the engine..... the additional gas ('super oxygen') is combusted and expelled out the exhaust, in this case- through the turbine housing.

If the wastegates can't bypass enough of the extra gass, then you will get boost spiking, extreme back pressure and other things happening that are bad.

Especially with the zex kit, keep the dose low (under 75hp), keep a keen eye on the afr's and boost guage.

There is a whole science to nitrous... most people don't understand how it works- including most workshops. It's easy to plumb up (poorly) but very hard to truly get right.

Go to wizard of nos dot com for a full forum of information...

I firmly believe nitrous injection is a fantastic power adder if used and controlled correctly...

[R31Nismoid]

given -9 and -5 share the same rear housing, i don't think that'll be a major issue (the flow side of it). Even with nitrous 75 shot you'll only just come line ball with what you could do on pump with -5s

[XRATED]

given -9 and -5 share the same rear housing, i don't think that'll be a major issue (the flow side of it). Even with nitrous 75 shot you'll only just come line ball with what you could do on pump with -5s

As mush as anything, the -9's will boost spike quicker than -5's because of the smaller front end. Also -5's at that kind of hp (400rwkw) are starting at the boarderline of housing flow.. yes you can get more out of them, but the scale starts dropping off at a rapid rate.

If a fixed shot is used- the wastegates wont be big enough to bypass the immediate rush of extra gas nearly as efficiently or quickly as you might think. Especially as compared to an external wastegate set up.

I'll put it a different way- with 10cm T517Z's (a larger rear housing than -9/-5) I had some boost controll issues at 50hp worth of nitrous... not uncontrollable, but the boost issues got bigger, when more nitrous was used.

... if you've bought a basic zex kit- to get the best out of it, get a pressure gauge, a bottle heater and keep the lines from the solinoids as short as possible.

Take a good look at nozzle placment and consider using a WON nozzle if nothing else to get a decent fan and fuel atomisation. If you tap the origional fuel circut, make shure your fuel pump can handle it. Oh and to try because the gass travels much faster than fuel, leave the nitrous line longer than the fuel line, or use a delay circut on the nitrous solinoid.

If you have any questions, just pm me- I'd be more than happy to help.

J.

Edited April 5, 2011 by XRATED

[XRATED]

http://www.noswizard.com/

Have a good read of the forum!

[cobrAA]

Thanks for the info!!

My kit is a ZEX RACE kit. I'm thinking 55 HP at the moment. I thought about changing turbos while I refresh my motor but I simply love how quick the GT-SS perform.

I prefer a quick setup over a laggy setup that I have to use NOS to spool the turbo quicker. That way, I will only use NOS at the drag or on the highway, just to have a bit more fun with a friend, I guess.. I won't use it everyday. but if I get a bigger turbo, I would be using the nitrous everyday and I don't want this.

The kit also came with a purge kit or some kind of it.. Should I install it or sell it back? What's the goal of this beside acting like Paul Walker in his R34 in FF2 lol ??

I also want to buy a RPM switch so I can set it at 5k rpm up to my rev limiter ( 7.5k), Should I set it lower?

Last question but an important one, My tuner said IT'S VERY IMPORTANT to keep an eye on the pressure of the bottle, if too low, I won't make power, if too high I might seriously blow my engine. So... I started looking for remote gauge but I couldn't find any sensor!! just the gauge. My kit came with a mechanical gauge, is it possible to modify that gauge in order to have an electric gauge?

Thanks a lot!

[PM-R33]

Keep the purge kit. Basically purges out the old nitrous that has been sitting in the lines to get a newer shot ready. You don't have to have it venting in the air for every one to see. I have mine venting on the back of the intercooler so it atleast is beneficial. Also the venting on FF2 wasn't nitrous, it was a CO2 kit hence the huge clouds.

Don't have it anywhere near your rev limiter. If you hit rev limiter and there is still nitrous injecting you will kill the motor.

It is important to watch the pressure but it isn't the end of the world. What he said is true, however you will never have the pressure at a dangerous level unless you have the bottle sitting out in the sun. As the bottle empties, the pressure will get lower. Hence why people use bottle warmers to bring the pressure back up. Simply means the hit from the nitrous won't be as big when the pressure starts getting low. I don't run a bottle warmer for the time being. Might get one in the future.

A gauge simply mounted on the bottle is more than adequate. If you want an electric one mounted inside the car those are available, however you can't convert your mechanical one into an electric one.

[XRATED]

Thanks for the info!!

My kit is a ZEX RACE kit. I'm thinking 55 HP at the moment. I thought about changing turbos while I refresh my motor but I simply love how quick the GT-SS perform.

I prefer a quick setup over a laggy setup that I have to use NOS to spool the turbo quicker. That way, I will only use NOS at the drag or on the highway, just to have a bit more fun with a friend, I guess.. I won't use it everyday. but if I get a bigger turbo, I would be using the nitrous everyday and I don't want this.

The kit also came with a purge kit or some kind of it.. Should I install it or sell it back? What's the goal of this beside acting like Paul Walker in his R34 in FF2 lol ??

I also want to buy a RPM switch so I can set it at 5k rpm up to my rev limiter ( 7.5k), Should I set it lower?

Last question but an important one, My tuner said IT'S VERY IMPORTANT to keep an eye on the pressure of the bottle, if too low, I won't make power, if too high I might seriously blow my engine. So... I started looking for remote gauge but I couldn't find any sensor!! just the gauge. My kit came with a mechanical gauge, is it possible to modify that gauge in order to have an electric gauge?

Thanks a lot!

Nitrous express or WON electronic bottle pressure gauges. I wouldn't bother with one unless your using the nitrous alot, just stick with the mechanical bottle mounted guage.

When installing the nitrous system, it must only activate at full throttle (use a microswitch on your throttle body)... An rpm window switch is also a good idea... id say 4000-7000rpm.

Nirtous sitting in a line in the hot engine bay will start it's phase change to gas in the line as it sits there... purging a little, clears the line of gas and brings the cold, liquid nitrous to the soliniod.

Get a decent bottle heater that is pressure reffrenced, not temperature reffrenced! especially if you live in a colder climate.

Set it up correctly, tune it right for just under top bottle pressure on a 55hp shot and you should see a good reliable 50hp gain at the wheels....

Cheers

J.

[cobrAA]

Hey guys,

Zex recommends to go 2 temp colder when suing NOS. considering I use regular 6 cold temps.. I should now bought 8 ?

[PM-R33]

Spark plugs? 7s are fine.

[cobrAA]

Spark plugs? 7s are fine.

WOW I'm so stupid hahaa yeah sure spark plugs!