Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,I've a 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T with an automatic transmission.I'm looking to modify it,I've been doing alot of research and spoke to a couple Japanese Imports Specialist like C-Red and Imports 101 here in Perth.They told me because my car is an automatic,the stock ECU is a little more restrictive compared to the manual one.Recently,I've been looking at Nistune.C-Red told me that they wouldn't recommend it for an R34,and likely to have problems with tuning in the long run,it's better to go for a piggyback ECU like Haltech or something which would cost around $2,000 to $3,000 mark.On the other hand,Imports 101 told me that the Nistune is quite reliable and alot cheaper compared to the piggyback (only around $1,200 fitted and tuned).It's true that you could have problems with it in the long run but very rare or unlikely.At the moment

I have podfilter,catback exhaust and a front mount intercooler and I'm running 11PSI boost,they told me if I want to stick with the stock turbo,you could be looking at around 200kWs at the wheels.

What do you guys suggest ? Should I look for brands like Motec,Apex'i or something ? Thanks

Edited by Jeremy1607
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357580-aftermarket-ecu-for-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This Tuner sounds a bit dodgy at best...

A haltec is NOT a piggy back ECU, it's a complete ECU, and from what I've read won't work so well with the automatic.

I'm fairly sure that NIStune is the only ECU that will handle the auto.

nistune is NOT unreliable, NOT hard to tune and the cheapest and best option.

I've got it in my GTT running dual maps PULP98 and E85 making 290rwkw .

the 200rwkw mark is correct for the stock turbo.

Pretty sure there is another thread exactly the same from you. We answered in there.

Its garbage, stock ECU is the best for an automatic. You can modify all the factory automatic settings. Nistune is an excellent solution and great value. I am running it with no issues and 280rwkw. There are guys with 400rwkw+ running it.

NIStune all the way, stay away from CRed, so not happy with their Haltech install on my wagon and the butchering of my loom they did.

Removing it in favour of NIStune (had a hiccup with a spare ECU that didn't work :( ) soon.

Send me a PM, I can get NIStune boards and I have a mate that fits them for me and will probably work for alcohol :)

Further to things said above, Haltech is not a piggyback BUT when fitting them to our auto cars (my engine/transmission setup is pretty much the same as yours but 4WD) they have to be wired in as a piggyback. The TCM isn't a seperate unit like the older autos, it is part of the ECU which means the stock ECU has to remain to control the gearbox. This is how mine was done and they did some other dodgy stuff like changed the water temp sensor to suit the Haltech which screwed up things controlled by the stock ECU that need certain temperatures to operate (VCT for example, would never engage because the stock ECU was seeing the water temp as 65deg instead of 85deg).

Also, my NIStune tuners of choice in WA would be Hyperdrive and AllStar Garage.

Edited by bubba

Okay,thanks.I will look around again and find out more information.

Do any of you know what's the maximum power you could get from the stock turbo ?

I want it to be as powerful as possible but at the same time I want to keep it safe for the engine (like if you run 16-18PSI on the stock turbo,the engine block can't handle it and it could blow up) and good fuel efficiency.

Dangerous territory bloke, this is probably the most common question asked on this forum. Do a search or look through the rb25 dyno results thread.

Max power on standard turbo is roughly 200rwkw, max safe boost is between 10-12psi.

Haha yeah I know,that means if I want anything more powerful than 200kWs.I need to go for a bigger turbo ? I'm running 11PSI at the moment.

Are there any other ways to make more power with the stock turbo or 200kWs and that's it ?

if you want more power than 200kw you will need a bigger turbo. that's the basic answer. and as far as fuel economy and reliability it's impossible to have them both with more power. as you make more power you WILL use more fuel. it's simple. to get more power your car must consume more air and more fuel to make it. and of course more power puts more stress on your engine so yes reliability will be reduced the more power you make. look at something like a GTRS bolt on kit. that will give you an easy 250kw. and yes the nistune is the best option for an auto R34.

Yeah,I understand.What's a GTRS bolt on kit and where can I find more information about it ?

And is nitrous oxide even legal to use on a car ?

Maybe I should for the Nistune first then (to make around 200kWs) ?

the turbo is made by HKS and it's called a GT-RS

if you google for GTRS youll find tons of pages of random crap

if you browse in the turbo upgrade section you should plenty of RB25s with GT-RS fitted

but its not a cheap upgrade

you need to upgrade

fuel pump

injectors

airflow meter

nistune

tune of nistune (or whatever option)

turbo kit itself

tyres

intercooler

so whilist the turbo kit may only be 2.5k the other stuff really adds up

Haha you mean,I should do research on my own regarding the GTRS bolton kit ? Okay,will do.

Just type in GTRS into the search field in the Forced Induction section and you will get heaps of info. Way more than a few people replying to your post here.

To be honest I dont recommend the GTRS kit, quite expensive and looses the factory appearance so cops can get you in trouble.

Get a hiflow turbo, GCG or Hypergear etc. Not to mention these will just bolt straight back on plus the fact they have factory appearance and about half the price of a HKS kit. Just saying this has all been discussed over and over before. So much info on here.

Okay,cool.Are there any other cheaper options that I can look at then ?

I mean $7,000 just to get 250kWs isn't worth it.If it cost $7,000 just to make 250kWs,how much would it cost to make around 300-500kWs ?

Hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...