Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Purchased this car back in august 01 for a whopping $23K as a 1st owner in Australia car.

Car has been through alot of changes and been subject to my learning car stuff by tinkering with her since i bought it. This is one of the reasons i have decided to redo the whole car from the ground up as there was too many "just make it work" moments in the past and this led to the un-neat solutions that this attitude creates. Im sure we all know what thats like.

car was purchased with :

Volk EMU racing 16" rims

tanabe coilovers

HKS SLD

Black s1 M spec kit

Will try to find some old photos of the car when i bought it and post them up later

Here is how the car sits right now :

HKS GT3040 on stainless manifold

Tial 38mm gate

custom exhaust

sard 550c injectors

Sard FPR

044 externally mounted

Power FC

Z32 AFM

Tomei Poncams

Plazmaman Plenum

PWR radiator

making 290rwkw some years ago after i finished the install on hitmans dyno on 98ron

Been through a few changes over the last 5 months also with the addition of Tein Flex coilovers and removing the subframe and replacing all the bushes.

Car now :

IMG_3144.jpg

IMG_3145.jpg

Plan for the car is to get it ready for engineering and also make it more comfortable and reliable, then get back out on the track :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 184
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hopefully keeping this thread updated will help me with the motivation to get stuck into this rebuild. Even if i didnt know it had been approved already lol

Brake Kit :

Consists on EVO IX brembos

Custom 355mm rotors on alloy hats front and rear

Rear calipers where spaced apart 4mm to allow for the 32mm thick rotors - allowing for a more common thickness rotor for cheaper replacments

IMG_3136.jpg

IMG_3129.jpg

rears - and the reason i had to sell my work meisters :(

rearbrakeswithmeisters.jpg

no room for the caliper in there :P

Hence the 350z rims - picked them up for $200 off ebay, so got them coated up in Black chrome and it turned out to be a real nice combo with the cars colour and the rim design. Its not flush but goes well with the $300 semi slicks i picked up 2nd hand from Gordon Levin Tyres.

IMG_0366.jpg

Advan AO48 - 235/40/R18

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5746211
Share on other sites

At the end of last year i took out the rear subframe for a big overhaul - New bushes everywhere, from subframe to arms to the 2way mechanical diff mounts

IMG_0332.jpg

Split down to this:

IMG_0336.jpg

IMG_0335.jpg

Then fixed up and turned into this :

IMG_0338.jpg

IMG_0356.jpg

IMG_0355.jpg

With the alloy rear hat it will the extra cooling provided by the 2 piece rotor, but i lose the ability to use the handbrake while in motion - so no sliding that way for me

Hicas lock bar was finally installed when this was all re-installed into the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5746246
Share on other sites

so heres the old interior, fibreglassed in that boost guage and had the oil and water temps replacing the old hazard lights and demister switches. idea with those was to be legal while more in line of sight than the DINN console

Mona010.jpg

Then i got these :

IMG_0339.jpg

and after having this car for so long, dealing with rattling pillow ball tops and fuel pumps in the boot i decided i wanted this car to be comfortable to drive, while having plenty of power and as good handling as i can get it.....so i did this

IMG_0337.jpg

So to match the new R34 GTR seats i got the door cards and rear panels retrimmed in as close a match as i could find.

IMG_0351.jpg

The seats i got were modified to fit some non-skyline so i had to cut the mounts off the stock seats and weld them back onto the GTR seats - still only done this for the drivers seat so far

IMG_0352.jpg

IMG_0346.jpg

Rear seats were also installed from a 34 GTR

IMG_3244.jpg

new front seats changed the driving position, so i purchased some deep corn to resolve the issue :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5746247
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Powdercoated my own set of RB26 covers while i was prepping some other parts (been sitting in powder primer waiting to go for near 2 months) , really like this colour

IMG_3278.jpg

IMG_3279.jpg

IMG_3280.jpg

Love how the RB26 looks

So after some thinking about engineering and the work i need to do with piping and ceramics on the hot side i've finally decided to build my RB26/30

Only bits left to get are :

AAC and IAC

Injectors

new PowerFC - hoping to score a D-jetro

New Exhaust Manifold

Oil pump

Crank Collar

VRS kit

everything else i have already collected - so hopefully i can get the crank collar soon and installed on the crank asap

then i'll be assembling the motor myself, nothing fancy just rebuilding the rb30e block to standard as im not after big power, just a bit more drivability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5766101
Share on other sites

cheer mate,

re: handbrake

Im using a 2 piece rotor on the rear. specially made rear alloy hat is hard annodised for durability, but still cannot withstand the use of the handbrakes shoes on it while in motion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5766188
Share on other sites

How did you find that sound deadening idea worked? How much and where from?

Without the rear seats in my R34 transfers a fair bit of road noise through the cabin... :glare:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5769089
Share on other sites

i got a mega pack from the USA, was a long time ago so dont remember the price now

as for how it works, well i havent driven the car since doing it haha

i did notice that from doing the front half of the rear quarter panel (under the 1/4 window) that opening and closing the door has more of a thump to it than before. thats without touching the front doors yet

i have 2 sheets left out of the 9 sheets in the pack which did the 1/4 guards and the rear seat area you see in the photos. I think to finish the front half of the cabin and the boot i'll need another 2 boxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5769104
Share on other sites

i got a mega pack from the USA, was a long time ago so dont remember the price now

as for how it works, well i havent driven the car since doing it haha

i did notice that from doing the front half of the rear quarter panel (under the 1/4 window) that opening and closing the door has more of a thump to it than before. thats without touching the front doors yet

i have 2 sheets left out of the 9 sheets in the pack which did the 1/4 guards and the rear seat area you see in the photos. I think to finish the front half of the cabin and the boot i'll need another 2 boxes.

I used my friend :google: and i found the company in the US... They have a new version called the SUPERLITE which is an obvious advantage for the performance side.... They have prices online for the pack similar to yours and its about $350 USD (Not sure about freight though)

If it gets rid of the road noise it will be worth doing...

What do you mean by "More of a thump"? is it just because you sealed it up and its airtight?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5769121
Share on other sites

What do you mean by "More of a thump"? is it just because you sealed it up and its airtight?

Just less reverberation when shutting the door, like nice new cars

checkout ebay US too for the dynamat, definately cheaper than buying locally even when the dollar wasnt as good as it is now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357621-craved-revamp/#findComment-5769131
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...