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Was thinking of using that on the roof lining atleast

But main aim is to get it road worthy and engineered. which means getting this motor finished

Block was just dropped off at the machinists for an acid bath, all welsh plugs and gallery plugs are being removed. Then we'll check the piston to bore clerance to ensure the stock pistons are still fine in the bore

If not, i'll have to try the other 2 blocks i have

The 10mm foam won't fit in the roof, needs to be 5mm. I learnt this the hard way and it made the clips at the back near the rear window separate from the lining after a few days. I think I've got enough of the 5 mm left over at home. If I do it's yours.

Try out the foam I used on top of the dynamat Chris, weighs nothing and makes a big difference.......just my 2c

Whats the "foam" you refer too champ? Any pics to what you are talking about? :unsure:

Bit of progress :)

Always hated how unsecure the front bar was, dealing with bolts into the guards and spacers between the lights. This basically allowed alot of movement when driving leading to rattles etc.

As you can see below im working on a new reo for the bar, tied into the 8mm plate steel mounts for the intercooler.

So in order to secure the front bar in a way that allows for fairly easy removal i made up some mounting points that were attached to the front bar.

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Then triangulated some supports to hold it in place while i removed the bar

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Then once removed i linked them to the support bars.

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then reinstalled the bar to test it out

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PERFECT! so sturdy, and just with these 2 mounting points

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Next step is to connect the rear of the bar to another support, so this will remove the connection to the front guards.

So to hold it in place until i've finished the new mounts i use the panel clamps i got in my Cleco kit.

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Next step will be to work on the intercooler piping on the hot side.

Need to wait until i get some new rollers for my MIG so i can run 0.6mm wire to connect these 2 4inch stainless steel sections into the body work.

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I designed them this way as i was cutting through the silicon joiners as they passed through the factory holes, so angled how i need them for better pipework design and a CAI for the airbox i'll build later on.

With everything closed it was time to tackle some of a little jobs that i didnt need materials or tools for.

R34 GTR passenger seat mounts were modded by welding on the stock seats mounts back to the rails.

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Also installed the new painted dash to get it back to a more stock look, removing the guage holes and will let me start working on the new guage holder in the DINN area.

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next for this area is to mod the gear shift around to hold the ID3 display, then paint it to match.

bottom dash pieces will have to stay out until the RB26 loom and ecu is ready to go in

Another little update, took a while to cut out the shape, but the new holder for the ID3 display is mostly ready.

Just need to work out a mounting option for it, and get some velcro to hold it in place..

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Bit more progress today before the work week starts again.

Triangulated up the front bar mounts with tubing, then to test out my new dimple dies we added the plating between the supports.

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Next step is to finish welding the supports, then make a new support panel for the new power steering fluid cooler.

I will be working on getting the car running again with the RB25 to test out the all the changes already made to : brakes, fuel system, wiring, intercooler, front bar supports, rear suspension geometry, and the new Tein Flex's i installed earlier (these need to be leveled out after the settling period)

so plenty of things to go yet, but getting close to running again. Dont want to jump too far ahead and have alot of things to tweak when the 26/30 goes in.

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