Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 184
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Next:

  1. strip down all the piping and clean up the insides of all the pipes
  2. got my new 0.6 rollers for the MIG and a new gun and lead (currently setup for Alloy MIG welding) - so weld up the pipe pass throughs and finalise the front reo welds
  3. make supports for the rear of the front bar
  4. re-run vacuum hose to the boost controller from the plenum - old setup had nipples on the turbo outlet pipe
  5. make a plug for the Pcv holes in both plenum and cam cover
  6. connect up inlet pipe
  7. start it :P

Well this list is completed and the car is running again.

Just waiting on the pins for the rear calipers to hold the pads in place (custom machined pins due to the spacers inside the caliper) then off to a wheel alignment later this week.

Chris,,,when and if the timings right I would be more than happy to talk about buying your inlet manifold :-).

Cheers

Neil.

No worries Neil :)

Few updates:

one big hiccup, noticed a small amount weeping of coolant weeping from the water outlet in the plenum, so i tightened the hose clamp.............and crack!

IMG_3351.jpg

whoops

IMG_3350.jpg

Off to UAS for a replacement and had the new outlet pipe installed in about 20 mins.

In order to attract less attention from the police i have started prepping a street boot that i have shaved over the last couple of nights.

IMG_3352.jpg

IMG_3353.jpg

IMG_3354.jpg

IMG_3355.jpg

Will get this painted up and installed this week hopefully.

Well, i took the boot around to a painter....

was told that i over heated the panel and stretched it, and that it wont block flat without heat shrinking the boot (granted that it was a little hot and the boot skin does flex more than std) and that i should find a new boot and start with that.

so i went and spent $31 on some acrylic GMH black paint and a spray primer.

primed, dried, wet sanded then gave it a couple of coats of black. just wish the spray gun i had was a little more reliable and would spray a nice consistent pattern, turned out ok, flash certainly makes it look worse.

IMG_3363.jpg

IMG_3364.jpg

IMG_3365.jpg

Will block it again and give another coat later when i can get a better gun, or someone who is a better painter than me to give it a go :)

got the boot installed last night when a mate came around, its not really a one man job.

hopefully get the pins back today, so i can drive the car out and give it a wash :)

Also swapped out my Sard FPR for a nismo item, much neater install now - just a bit fiddly testing the pressure before the swap and after. Just glad my mechanic lent me his guage for a couple of hours for it.

Nismo FPR is super easy to adjust.

Still some troubleshooting to be done, my idle is a bit dicky after 55 degrees water temp, tap the throttle and it idles at 2000rpm. This can be driven out by doing a lap of the block, or by disconnecting the AAC's plug.

Might download the powerFC's map to the laptop and do a reset, then reload the map see if the idle learning procedure makes a difference.

Chris, before resetting the tune, have you put some magic Subaru Upper Cylinder Head treatment through it?

I did mine (Many years back now) by ripping it all apart and scrubbing it blah blah blah... Still had gunk in it... Did the ol' Subaru treatment to it, by spraying the subaru shitdown through the actual AAC valve (You'll need someone to hold the revs up for you as it will cough and splutter like a bitch!)

I'm thinking it might be a gummed up AAC is all...

cheers Daniel, will have to start hunting for them, also need the loom for it too .. sigh lol

hmm Matt, this is different to their in oil treatments? so like a carbie cleaner product?

subaru service centre is just at the front of my complex so might be able to get some today

gave it a run around the complex, handbrake needs adjusting and a wheel alignment big time.. few rattles in my cold side piping as its not permanant.

gave her a rinse too, might try a proper wash tomorrow

IMG_3384.jpg

IMG_3394.jpg

IMG_3398.jpg

IMG_3403.jpg

going to lower the rear 10mm, that should raise the front the 3mm i need to be legal there.

might also need to get the guards rolled before i correct out all the camber on the rear during the wheel alignment that will hopefully take place later in the week

cheers Daniel, will have to start hunting for them, also need the loom for it too .. sigh lol

hmm Matt, this is different to their in oil treatments? so like a carbie cleaner product?

subaru service centre is just at the front of my complex so might be able to get some today

Yeah it's like a carby cleaner, you spray it in while she's running, throw it down the pipe that leads to The aac valve. It'll wanna stall, you'll beer two people one to keep te revs up the other one to spray.

I think the idle is relearning as its getting better- found that the IAC under the plenum was unplugged lol so fixed that

also adjusted the handbrake so its real loose now to protect the alloy drums.

felt a clicking in the brakes, turned out it was just the master cyl stopper was a bit loose so tightened that up and the brakes feel alot firmer and more touchy than before i swapped to the brembo's

Hopefully the brake shop i use still has the bias testers so i can see what the brakes are doing as i suspect the rears are working harder than the fronts

anyone got a spare r33 gtst series 1 clutch slave cylinder? left leg is too weak for the clutch now lol - get a spare bored out to 20.54mm or similar like the nismo slaves. well if tis cheaper than the $154 i'd pay getting the nismo one shipped over from JPN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...