Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt3071R V Gt3076R

Jap_star

By Jap_star,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

I think went from 280 to 300, there is a dyno sheet before and after I believe.

Just reading through the thread now, going from 280 to 300 was just due to tomei poncams. Doesnt mention changing the turbo exhaust housing.

Although his first dyno is with the standard R34 GTT turbo and without touching the tune it made 219rwkw which I have never heard of before so maybe the dyno is a little happy compared with other ones we have seen.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just reading through the thread now, going from 280 to 300 was just due to tomei poncams. Doesnt mention changing the turbo exhaust housing.

Although his first dyno is with the standard R34 GTT turbo and without touching the tune it made 219rwkw which I have never heard of before so maybe the dyno is a little happy compared with other ones we have seen.

My bad I thought you were asking about the poncams, I can tell you right now that dyno isn't happy.

My mate had his GT3076 rb30 with poncams tuned there on 18psi and it only made 260kw.

edit: same tuner as well pete puts a lot of it down to the neo.

Edited by Rolls
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Oh im very excited Jase lol :rofl:

just wondering how much different E85 & 300+kw will feel compared to 288kw on 98 :yes:

Considering the ping resistance E85 has got you could pump the timing in and see massive midrange gains. A 'little' extra assomometer numbers can be expect :thumbsup:

Also, its a GTX with E85....... Why stop at 300? Get a good tuner on board and tell them to PUSH IT. I would be surprised if a GTX3071 couldnt flow an outright max of 340 on E85

With all that extra midrange Id be expecting its going to be two different cars.

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Well ive got the good tuner and i was shooting for 320+kw thought it seemed a modest figure to shoot for on moonshine dunno how my clutch will hold up with this kinda power though its only a modified standard by jim berry made 3100lb of clamp.

Might just get it PUSHED and see if you are on the money Jase but im definately expecting it to be a monster hahaha :banana:

Considering the ping resistance E85 has got you could pump the timing in and see massive midrange gains. A 'little' extra assomometer numbers can be expect :thumbsup:

Also, its a GTX with E85....... Why stop at 300? Get a good tuner on board and tell them to PUSH IT. I would be surprised if a GTX3071 couldnt flow an outright max of 340 on E85

With all that extra midrange Id be expecting its going to be two different cars.

Jap_star Mentor

Jap_star

Posted
  • Author
Posted

May as well update this. Will post dyno sheet tomorrow

Car is now happyily running on united e85 and is an animal

On 13.x psi it made 276rwkw . Just makes power everywhere. Full boost in 4th is 3200ish

Sadly my 18.8 psi tial set up still hasn't arrived from the states but when it does I think ill just run 16 or so,there no real need for any more if I can't use it

So overall it made 40rwkw more on 1psi less boost just from e85

Thanks again to Martin and the boys at Willal racing. Tune is amazing

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Sadly my 18.8 psi tial set up still hasn't arrived from the states but when it does I think ill just run 16 or so,there no real need for any more if I can't use it

Sounds awesome but this statement should mean an instant ban! :rofl2:

Jap_star Mentor

Jap_star

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds awesome but this statement should mean an instant ban! :rofl2:

lol. i think ill put the 18.8 set up in and just see what it makes and how it drives. The car is a daily and is used for grip work so the tyres wont be the biggest fans

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Haha im hoping for 320+kw with a big fat E85 midrange hopefully the feet can keep up with that kinda power because i will be at the limit of my setup after this stage or unless i build a motor didnt think id get this power hungry :whistling:

Jap_star Mentor

Jap_star

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im not 100% sure but think you want the 56t mate the 52t is more equivelant to the 3037.

Im sure somebody will correct me if im wrong lol :nyaanyaa:

thats correct. mind you with the .63 rear, 52t and e85 it really is pretty awesome. without e85, depending on the rear housing you go for 300rwkw is easily achieved

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Be interesting to compare our setups once mine is on E85 next week as our setups are similar :thumbsup: when are you seeing full boost and what size are your injectors mate?

Ive got 850cc injectors a tomei pump and a GTX3071R internal gated

thats correct. mind you with the .63 rear, 52t and e85 it really is pretty awesome. without e85, depending on the rear housing you go for 300rwkw is easily achieved

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Im not 100% sure but think you want the 56t mate the 52t is more equivelant to the 3037.

Im sure somebody will correct me if im wrong lol :nyaanyaa:

HKS produced a turbo with the 52 trim comp however this does not mean that all turbos listed as 3037 aka 3076 are 52 trim.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...