Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys!

I wonder if anyone know how much KW an unported rb25det head can handle on an rb30? Is it worth fitting Tomei Poncams and harder valvesprings on an unported head?

If the bottom is forged, balanced and has a nitto or Tomei oilpump with the longer crank collar would it be safe to rev 8000-8500 with the std hydraulic lifters?

I also wonder if it´s worth keeping the NVCS when build an rb30 or is it better to not use it, As the rb30/25 has enough torque at low rpms?

I will use Ethanol as fuel if it matters.

Sorry for newbie quests :cheers:

  • 1 year later...

realy impressive! Wonder how much more poncams would do if it´s worth it before porting it?

you must have DEEP pockets, you would be looking at around $1000 just for the cams alone. . . the oil pump is right up there too

Hi Guys!

I wonder if anyone know how much KW an unported rb25det head can handle on an rb30? Is it worth fitting Tomei Poncams and harder valvesprings on an unported head?

If the bottom is forged, balanced and has a nitto or Tomei oilpump with the longer crank collar would it be safe to rev 8000-8500 with the std hydraulic lifters?

I also wonder if it´s worth keeping the NVCS when build an rb30 or is it better to not use it, As the rb30/25 has enough torque at low rpms?

I will use Ethanol as fuel if it matters.

Sorry for newbie quests :cheers:

Keep the VCT - no such thing as too much torque.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...