Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for set of caliper adaptors/dogbones to fit 350z track brake rotors to R32 gtst. (good price on 350z rotors)

found a few sets on ebay & czp.com to suit z32 but postage is a killer, UAS want a mint for there dogbone to suit GTR rotors.

thinking of using 350z track dba4000 slotted rotors @ 324mm and std sumi calipers, braided lines with project mu pads.

also running 17x9 with federal RSR tyres, Tein drift master 8k&6k, all adjustable arms.

any help or advise welcome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358237-caliper-adaptordogbones/
Share on other sites

why the 350Z rotors? 32Vspec/33/34 GTR rotors are 324mm and are available from plenty of manufacturers. the kit from UAS is actually not that bad price wise and a quite a good kit. at least they test the stuff they make so you know it's going to work with what you want. and you only have to buy the calliper mounts once...

why the 350Z rotors? 32Vspec/33/34 GTR rotors are 324mm and are available from plenty of manufacturers. the kit from UAS is actually not that bad price wise and a quite a good kit. at least they test the stuff they make so you know it's going to work with what you want. and you only have to buy the calliper mounts once...

+1

I bought the GTR brake upgrade kit from UAS, Dogbones, 324mm 2 peice curved vein slotted rotors for around $800. I reckon thats a good price for a budget upgrade.

From what Ive been told by John and a few others (And I am no expert so please correct me if Im wrong) the 33 Sumitomos are more than adequate for this setup on a MILD street/track car and has very noticable extra stopping power campared to stock with better cooling capacity because of the extra surface area so less fade.

Im not sure wether the 32 and 33 calipers are the same but you can pick up a set of 33 GTST calipers dirt cheap, chuck a seal kit through them and bobs your uncle.

IMO this is a good budget setup if your not running BIG power. Unfortunately I have not put mine on the car yet so I cany comment on real world results but it gets you a lot of brake compared to stock from sitting them side by side.

I'm interested to hear peoples experiences as well. I guess the yanks go for 350z rotors because there's not many Skylines, so the dogbones will only suit the 350z Brembo rotors hat offsets. I've seen them for sale elsewhere as well for about $100 US, if they won't post internationally then you can use a broker like PriceUSA.

http://www.mysr20.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Z33bracket

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...