Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

ive got in a huge arguement with a knowall who knows nothing on another forum regarding coolants, i work in a mechanical repair business specialising in exhausts and radiators, i change coolant every day, use whatver coolant you want, so long as it has anti corrosive properties that dont effect alloy as they pretty much all do anyway so you should be fine. Red or green, it doesnt matter, its just a dye. I cant remember the brand off the top of my head that i use at work but we buy it in big goon sacks in bulk anyway so i doubt it is retailed. We have both red and green and they both contain the same ingrediants, just different dyes. I run this in 2 of my cars and supercheap brand in the other and have never had an issue, neither have any of our customers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358403-radiator-fluids/#findComment-5828648
Share on other sites

Any 1/2 decent 'green' coolant is fine IMO.

Since I like to get my radiator system checked (& cleaned if needed) every year, I just use the 'standard life' coolants & don't bother with the extra long life stuff (the 5 year stuff).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358403-radiator-fluids/#findComment-5830889
Share on other sites

r u joking?

Nope, i only ever used nissan coolant in my gtr. Pulled the motor down a few months ago and had f**k all corrsion in the coolant ports in the block, which is pretty strange for a motor that old.

Also we have problems with xtrails and d40's overheating at work. Mainly because they've used a non genuine coolant or cheap coolant which has started electrolysis in the aloy parts of the cooling system. Look into the radiator and you will see a fine dust like substance all through the coolant. This infact blocks the radiotars slightly and inturn they over heat. Put your multimeter in the coolant and check for stray current and you will always see a reading well over .3v's in these vehicles. These customers have voided all warrarnty in regards to the cooling system of their car because of this.

Not saying it would be the same in a vehicle with a cast iron block, but just gives you an idea of what can happen. Nissan have also released a tech bulletin to all the technicians about this which gives you an indication of how bad it may be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358403-radiator-fluids/#findComment-5831196
Share on other sites

Also see that the coolant you use is for engines with cast-iron-block and aluminium heads.

Coolants for 100% aluminium engines are of a different consistency.

In general I would say that you have to stick to green or blue/greenish colours.

(Though this might not be a binding rule ...)

Basically there are 2 types of coolant:

Silicate based (green/blue)

Non silicate based (red/purple)

Here's the one I use:

http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/353

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358403-radiator-fluids/#findComment-5838809
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...