Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I currently have a Z32 AFM in the standard location (in the intake, in front of the turbo) with 3" metal piping and a pod filter.

I cannot seem to make more than 280rwkw no matter if I run more boost etc on 98 fuel. I am being told to move the AFM to the cooler piping and then either keep the 3" metal intake or upgrade to a 4" intake.

What is the most power have people made leaving the AFM in the intake system of the turbo?

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah quite a few have made over 300rwkw no problems

apexi rate a single Z32 legit VG30 AFM at 350kw and ash we saw peaked 360kw with a single Z32 as well

how are you working out the AFM is limiting your ability?

does it reach 5v - are you seeing anything else

or simply you can't make any more power and guessing what the cause is?

if you are reaching 300rwkw at peaking 5v something is not right

if its a legit z32 AFM from a VG30 and everything is correct you should not peak 5v at that power level

280 no dramas here, through a genuine z32 afm in factory location (and with factory airbox to boot)... I'll do a few WOT blasts when i get a chance and post up the AFM voltage if you like :)

Thanks guys. The AFM is not maxxing out voltage wise, I mean airflow wise. Surely it is a restriction in the intake and also means you can only run a 3" intake. So that intake system must have a power limit.

So sounds fine up to 300rwkw but I havent heard of many above this. Doesnt sound like the immediate issue then.

Thanks guys. The AFM is not maxxing out voltage wise, I mean airflow wise. Surely it is a restriction in the intake and also means you can only run a 3" intake. So that intake system must have a power limit.

So sounds fine up to 300rwkw but I havent heard of many above this. Doesnt sound like the immediate issue then.

No it's not the issue :)

i would expert 0rwkw gain by going to a larger intake pipe

if you are forced to upgrade to 4" intake then what about your intercooler pipework and throttle body

surely these must be upgrade as well to justify the 4" intake?

imho i wouldnt expect any point as i dont think you would be maxing out 3" of pipework

i would expert 0rwkw gain by going to a larger intake pipe

if you are forced to upgrade to 4" intake then what about your intercooler pipework and throttle body

surely these must be upgrade as well to justify the 4" intake?

imho i wouldnt expect any point as i dont think you would be maxing out 3" of pipework

i think he means intake pipe to the turbo not all of his intercooler piping that could still stay at 3'' and change the intake to the turbo to 4''.

when you think about it the turbo compresses the air so it will fit in the 3'' piping

I made 270rwkw on 98 with 17psi.

I made 369rwkw on 104 with 24psi

This was with the piping, same size as the AFM. Used an 3" -- 4" pipe to accomodate the GT30 4" intake.

A Z32 in a factory-ish position is not a restriction. If it was a restriction and now allowing the air in, it would never have made 24psi without giving issues.

AFM infront of the turbo, is not a restriction that's worth worrying about. Z32's flow enough for the majority of street setups, and have done so time over.

There are also people here with GT35's (4" intake also) who've made over 300rwkw with a Z32 as well. Check the dyno results threads and see.

The fact you run more boost without anymore power is indicative of two things.

1. Exhaust restriction or Intercooler restriction.

2. Turbo is on its limit.

Both are possible, #2 cannot be discounted until you rule out the #1 items.

How about details of the setup?

Im guessing a 3076 from the thread you created not long ago about intake pipes.

In this case youre not really that far off the bat power wise. They all make 280 give or take 10 for dyno, exhaust and intake combos.

I have a Hypergear turbo ATR43G3 with 0.82 rear but with standard nissan comp cover, metal 3" intake, Z32 AFM, 800cc injectors, trust return flow intercooler, just jap 1 piece dump pipe, Catco 3" cat and fujitsubo catback exhaust.

The top 2 sheets are with the exact turbo on Tao's car, bottom two are mine. Note mine is pretty close to Tao's on that boost level. If I crank the boost up to 20psi it just drops off to the same 15ish psi, same with 22psi. Makes a bit more midrange with the increased boost but no more top end.

Only difference in setups is that Tao had his AFM relocated to the cooler piping, hence my query.

post-29432-0-26423400-1301386417_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-26277400-1301386428_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-02425800-1301386450_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-11150100-1301386480_thumb.jpg

post-29432-69896_thumb.jpg

Different motors. Variance of 15rwkw. OK result in my book. You'll never get an identical result mate. Variance is to be expected as these aren't production controlled race motors.

Although i take it the "red" lines on the scanned graphs is you making the other results on?

In some instances they are mapped quite wrongly mate. EG: 1st graph vs 1st scanned graph - Nm is wrong.

4300rpm are identical (both are @ 475). However your mapping is different? (i realise one goes on to make more, but that aint the point)

One thing I've noticed: "GAIN" settings on a Dynapack. Yours have nothing, Hypergear ones have it populated.

Could be some correction factor being applied for whatever reason.

I CBF'd looking @ the other graphs as i've already noticed a few discrepancies. Something for you to keep looking with though.

15 kw could be the difference between cat convertors on each car. or bearing and ring condition. or plenty of other things.

drop the exhaust at the cat and do a run perhaps.

check if theres a pressure drop across the cooler core also.

ATR43G3 means nothing to me. what is a comparable garret turbo? or hks or similar?

.82 rear should not be holding u back i would not of thought but i dont know the other specs of said turbo.

if your turbo is getting towards the end of its efficent flow range then this could also prevent kw's climbing as psi is increased.

in the same way that a factory turbo at 15 psi will be shit compared to say a gt30 at 15 psi

Ignore the red hand drawn plot that is a different turbo that I was comparing.

The ATR43G3 is roughly equivalent to a 3076 in size.

It would be the front side that could be running out of efficiency, I am running a bored out standard compressor cover. Trent did say it was the most power he has had on his dyno with a standard compressor cover on the front of the turbo.

Interesting point about the cat.

Also did some exhaust troubleshooting:

yellow is full exhaust

light blue is with dump/front pipe and cat (catback exhaust removed)

dark blue is with only dump/front pipe (cat and catback exhaust removed)

I wish we continued the dark blue run, but it was mainly to see if we could improve response. Either way doesnt seem to be a big difference.

post-29432-50007_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
    • Ah the car is a complete shitbox and not even worth a respray lol, for a professional to do it would probably cost 15k because of all of the dings and stufd but I was keen for a side project. Also solved the problem of being bored haha. But with the rust yeah I can always fix that in the future, not a huge issue for me. I found out yesterday that when a dent is created a high spot is created around it (the crown) and to fix it I either need to tap the edges or just sand over it. Which is what made my filler work a bit confusing originally lol.
    • That's some useful information to have , it would be great if we had more local suppliers .
×
×
  • Create New...