Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a hiflow at 250rwkw and it was sometimes pretty hard to drive. Made heaps of boost and came on hard way too early in the rev range. On wet days if you tried to accelerate in 4th from say 70 to 100km/h you'd get wheel spin all the time. Fun but a real PITA, you couldn't always count on controlling it. Not saying all hiflows are like this, but mine was.

Stopping at uphill sets of traffic lights on wet days - just thinking about it used to make me break out in cold sweats. I'd plan my route to avoid having to go through them.

I went to a 3076 with external gate and WMI at 300rwkw and its a totally better vehicle all round. Good reliable steady progressive power. Transformed the car, made it a damn sight easier to live with. So its not called lag, its called control to me!!!

But buying and installing such a turbo takes more effort and $$$$ than one that bolts up to the std dumps etc. It really depends on your end goals and what you want to do with the car long term. Also - if you buy say a hypergear hiflow as an interim step - how easy would it be to resell later and get your $$$ back when you decide to up size??? Simple things like this can help make your build more progressive and easier on the bank account.

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

High flow would still be an option and there are high flows today capable of pumping out very decent numbers, how ever results of high flowed turbos varies depending on turbo work shops whom did it, since you are in UK sending it back n forward is not really practical. GT3076 is a good option, its not going to fit without much headaches and I'm aware of how expensive good mechanics are in UK. Other option is Hypergear atr43 "SS" series, which are very outstanding performers, they would also be the nettest turbo to install with every thing bolt up.

I dont know why people say 3076 is laggy. But then, comparing any turbo to a stock RB25 turbo its laggy.

I thoroughly enjoy driving Lithiums 300kw 3076 .82 R33. The extra "lag" actually makes the car quite nice to drive. Your not constantly making boost without trying haha. But if you want it, its not far away!

Plus.. the turbo spool noise is orgasmic. :blush:

Everything this man said, plus 3076R + external wastegate & 2" screamer = epic symphony of orgasmic turbo spool and ear raping gate.

Best ever. thumbsup.gif

Hi all, sorry for hijacking thread, just want opinions on hypergear atr43 G2 (260rwkw) and atr43 G3 (300rwkw) - anyone driven bothe setups?? What are the differences / opinion? Of course I know that the G2 would come on and die off earlier, BUT i would like to know what are they both like to drive on the street only with some spirited driving - its for a RB25DET NEO on a R34 and I'm deciding which one to get in the future - current mods - full exhaust, FMIC, Nistune, manual Boost controller @12psi, pod in box, NGKs gapped at 0.8mm. Tuner says that for 260rwkw all I need now is a Z32 and turbo - no injectors, dunno if thats true. Fuel pump Walbro GS3442 goin in on the weekend.

cheers

Ron

Hi all, sorry for hijacking thread, just want opinions on hypergear atr43 G2 (260rwkw) and atr43 G3 (300rwkw) - anyone driven bothe setups?? What are the differences / opinion? Of course I know that the G2 would come on and die off earlier, BUT i would like to know what are they both like to drive on the street only with some spirited driving - its for a RB25DET NEO on a R34 and I'm deciding which one to get in the future - current mods - full exhaust, FMIC, Nistune, manual Boost controller @12psi, pod in box, NGKs gapped at 0.8mm. Tuner says that for 260rwkw all I need now is a Z32 and turbo - no injectors, dunno if thats true. Fuel pump Walbro GS3442 goin in on the weekend.

cheers

Ron

Read the hypergear thread, everything you want is in there.

Also, it is known that a 2.5L 6 will make 1 hp per cc of your injectors. Thus 370cc injectors will probably max out at 370hp = 277kw, which would probably result in something like 240rwkw.

GL

so what are most pple running as far as the atr43s are concerned - G2s or G3s etc?? Would be nice to hear from someone whos run both in a street setup - opinions..or the new SS profile

Hi all, sorry for hijacking thread, just want opinions on hypergear atr43 G2 (260rwkw) and atr43 G3 (300rwkw) - anyone driven bothe setups?? What are the differences / opinion? Of course I know that the G2 would come on and die off earlier, BUT i would like to know what are they both like to drive on the street only with some spirited driving - its for a RB25DET NEO on a R34 and I'm deciding which one to get in the future - current mods - full exhaust, FMIC, Nistune, manual Boost controller @12psi, pod in box, NGKs gapped at 0.8mm. Tuner says that for 260rwkw all I need now is a Z32 and turbo - no injectors, dunno if thats true. Fuel pump Walbro GS3442 goin in on the weekend.

cheers

Ron

I was in their test car when he had the SS1 turbo straight after tune. no kidding that felt like a stock turbo with heaps more power. That would be sweet on stock injectors and tuned computer.

man i want that turbo then...havent sat in a gts-t or gt-r with aftermarket turbo, been in a sti with aftermarket turbo, didnt feel that quick, maybe the same as a gtt with 12psi and stage 1 mods, but u have to rev the guts outa those four bangers compared to our straight sixes..

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

shit..

im making 20psi by ~5000rpm..

thats with e85, poncams and stempipe manifold

man i want that turbo then...havent sat in a gts-t or gt-r with aftermarket turbo, been in a sti with aftermarket turbo, didnt feel that quick, maybe the same as a gtt with 12psi and stage 1 mods, but u have to rev the guts outa those four bangers compared to our straight sixes..

I think an STi in stock form would give a GTT a fair bit of trouble TBH.

take off / point to point, then yes for sure, if both stock then sti is quicker (cos of AWD??) but not by much, but i think the nissans respond much better to simple mods - even stage 1 mods - the modded sti wasnt all that quick - maybe it was farked, but u do have to rev the guts outa it to feel all the torque.. It was 99 model 4 door. I think EVOs respond better to mods than STis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...