Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

A couple of nights ago, my v35 coupe was broken into (along with 5 other cars in the area). The bastards smashed my drivers side window.

I rang up insurance and they sent me to a panel repairer for assessment and quote.

The assessor basically said that the window will need to be sourced from somewhere, most likely Japan... and can take upto 8 weeks!

This is my only car, im on annual leave for this week but go back to work next week... its gonna suck driving to work with no window, hopefully it doesnt rain.

Has this happened to any of you guys before? if so, where did you guys get your replacment glass from?

I rang up O'brian, i remembered they said that they can replace/fix and glass on any make/model.

They basically said that they also have to source the window and would need to do a search on it :-(

Any help on this would be great. Oh, im located in Brisbane, Forest Lake if that helps.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359866-smashed-coupe-drivers-side-window/
Share on other sites

Happened to me, it was my passenger side. They couldn't source me a new or used one in the country. Had to get a window from Nissan out of Japan, was approx 4-5 weeks. And because its a pillarless door, they can't put in a perspex piece either as a temp measure. Sucks to hear.

great news, the panel beaters said they sourced a window from Nissan Melbourne. O'bien also called back saying there was one in Melbourne aswell they quoted me ($930 to source and install the window).

Just have to wait for Insurance to authorise it and ill be back on the road :-)

Cheers guys

...my v35 coupe was broken into (along with 5 other cars in the area). The bastards smashed my drivers side window...
Was it simply vandelism, or theft of something in the car, or an attempt for the car itself?

Was it simply vandelism, or theft of something in the car, or an attempt for the car itself?

I think it was theft of something in the car. The police said that the other people that were hit that night had laptops/wallets/wedding rings stolen.

I would hope that it wasnt an attempt to steal the car... that would be very worrying.

Im with Justcar so my excess is $400, just waiting for authorisation. hopefully it doesnt take that long.

  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers mate,

Car is actually booked in on Monday to get fixed. They said itll take 2-3 days.... includes, fixing window, tinting, and panel damange.

I should of been booked in earlier, but bloody insurance (Just car) screwed me around with getting the repair authorised.

Hi Guys,

Just want to give you an update on this. So i dropped my car off on monday and picked it up on friday afternoon.

Before i had the car assessed i specificly told them to remove all broken glass within the door. Which they agreed to.

Below are pictures of how they installed my window.

dsc04527ru.jpg

dsc04529zf.jpg

As you can probably see, it was installed crooked.

I sprayed the hose over the car and obviously water leaks inside.

I decided to see if i could align the window myself.So this is what i found when i opened up the door panel...

dsc04522p.jpg

Pretty much all the broken glass was still sitting in there...

So anyway. i was able to align the window myself. It was quite an easy task. I figured ill post it up here in case someone has the same issue in the future.

Basically, you have to adjust one bolt. this bolt is circled in red in the picture below.

dsc04532copy.jpg

You can loosen the bolt and it will allow you to push the window higher or lower. The body repairers had my bolt right at the bottom. I simply loosened the bolt and pushed it as high as possible.

dsc04534copy.jpg

So, my window is now aligned and waterproof.

I dont think ill ever be going back that place again. Basically when i rang up my insurer (Just car), they gave me the option to provide 2 quotes from repairers of my choice, or go with their approved repairer.

Because i wanted my car to be fixed asap, i opted to go with their repairer as this would have been the easier quicker option (i know now that this is a big mistake).

Anyway, im not sure what the rules are for this forum about naming this repairer. But if someone can let me know if i can post their name up or not, ill be ever so happy to do so.

Edited by jjjones

I think you will find they simply didn't care. it was a small job and no money in it so the goal was get it in and get it back out quick..

not everyone has pride in their work now a days.

Hi Chris,

I looked on the other side and yes, the bolt is different. Do you think this will be an issue for me in the future?

Correct me if I'm wrong; but the other bolt visible in your close up photo looks like it might be the one? If not, you definitely need a larger washer to spread the load.

As for the repairer, contact your insurer and let them know how their money is being spent/wasted by the repairer in question. Given that most insurers have to guarantee repairs for life, they might change their opinion of that repairer.

That broken glass would've been rattling around like a bastard; how did they expect to get away with it? Seriously 5 minutes tops, with a vacuum cleaner would've finished the job. Pissweak.

Edited by Daleo

over time - yes. it will move back to the worng position. in all honesty it would probably bea easier to find the correct bolt and put it in place rather than dick around with the company that did it.

80498-CD000 is the bolt you need. should be a $2 item from your local nissan dealer. they do not need to know what car its for..

I think you will find that people in general don't care..

if you were driving a 458 italia and had a door ding then they would take you seriously on it. in all it was a $1200 job in which $200 or so was margin. not enough for them to really get excited over and note what they were doing except to replace the window glass. their thinking would have been this comes out and this goes back, looks ok lets get it invoiced to the ins company and move onto the next one.

I had a case of this years ago with a toyota starlet. paid them cash to paint the car and it came out perfect. took them more work (insurance job $5.5K) and it came out crap with bolts on the wrong spot/stripped and missing window rubbers. never wnet back to that shop after that.

short point. buy the bolt, clean the mess up and learn from it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...