Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking at upgrading my injecotrs and fuel pump b4 i get a tune and needing advice

in tank vs external which better? walbro vs bosch? looking for something that will fit in relatively easy without paying 3+ times the price to get a nismo one that will drop straight in.

what size injectors needed?

looking for 300awkw max but prob for better fuel ecomony and reliability will go closer to 250awkw.

300rwkw you might find will be OK with stock injectors. Some cars are, some aren't so as Jez said - just go with a fuel pump for now mate.

If you need them, get them. Otherwise you can tune to 280/290rwkw and save $700-$900 (purchase/fitting).

What turbos do you have? 300rwkw means non factory so you could probably make more if you did get injectors, you will need AFM's though.

not really keen on spending $600 on nismo pump which is more than 3 times price of bosch or walbro pump just coz its bit easier to install. from sounds of it unless i find a cheap set of injectors stick to what i got coz from what i can see like $600 sard 550cc injectors though the price to go to 1000cc injectors isnt much more.

so for fuel pump in tank vs external which better? walbro vs bosch? looking for something that will fit in relatively easy without paying 3+ times the price to get a nismo one that will drop straight in.

i got the N1 turbos, i tired searching several different topics nothing seems to come up but i get this alot guessing im just not using right words.

I have tuned a gtr 312kw stock injectors but a fuel reg.

250 kw is nothing for stock inj. Just get a fuel pump

What base pressure and afr bro?

But yea 250awkw is poossible with stock 444cc inj, even a little more......I'm doin roughly that now with them at 88% duty with 11.0 afrs,,,,and i'm sure your tuner wouldnt go that rich

Oooh ....an a walbro pump too....not in a gtr tho so i'm not sure about fitment

What base pressure and afr bro?

But yea 250awkw is poossible with stock 444cc inj, even a little more......I'm doin roughly that now with them at 88% duty with 11.0 afrs,,,,and i'm sure your tuner wouldnt go that rich

Oooh ....an a walbro pump too....not in a gtr tho so i'm not sure about fitment

I tuned it at 11.5 afr. I never set the base pressure myself so i can answer that one sorry.

Inj hit 105%

There is a new fuel pump, just released not long ago. It flows nearly 350lph at 45psi. 290lph @60psi all at 13.5v.

Basically it flows just over 30% more then a failbro 255, denso etc.@ 13.5v. As another comparison

the walbro and denso need 16.5v to run close to this pump at its 13.5v flow on 0.7 SG.

Nismo quotes 276lph @ 3 Bar pressure, no SG or voltage quoted

The only downside I can see is that it will probably surge on under 1/4 tank on a bnr32- more of a design prob of the

tank then pump.

Its a 100% drop in, in tank pump and the best part is, cost is about $250

I will be getting mine in a few days and post findings

What brand? Anyone needing more than 255LPH is going to be aiming for serious power and won't care about a couple hundred $$ saved, and will probably NOT skimp on it given how much was spent on the engine.

But, see how it goes :)

There is a new fuel pump, just released not long ago. It flows nearly 350lph at 45psi. 290lph @60psi all at 13.5v.

Basically it flows just over 30% more then a failbro 255, denso etc.@ 13.5v. As another comparison

the walbro and denso need 16.5v to run close to this pump at its 13.5v flow on 0.7 SG.

Nismo quotes 276lph @ 3 Bar pressure, no SG or voltage quoted

The only downside I can see is that it will probably surge on under 1/4 tank on a bnr32- more of a design prob of the

tank then pump.

Its a 100% drop in, in tank pump and the best part is, cost is about $250

I will be getting mine in a few days and post findings

would like more info on this pump and also you findings

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...