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hi guys,

I just installed the audi diy boost controller(autospeed), and am having major troubles setting it up.

it seems when i try to set it its stays on one boost setting ie, 8psi till around 4500rpms and then just creeps like crazy till 13psi at 7000 (worse in higher gears). i set the reg first and it done this even without the relief set

I used the norgren valves described in the article with the softer springs and a check valve that had a low crack pressure (i could crack it open with my mouth).

as far as i can tell ive put it together correctly, wastegate-reg(black nob)-relief(white nob)-plenum, arrows on the valves are facing towards wastegate and on check valve towards plenum.

so why isnt it workin?? any suggestions, hints, tip or help would be greatly appreciated.

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Can you post a pic of you'r setup I've built 3 of these setups... 2 using the better quality BIT micro regulater valve as in part 2 of the articles. We haven had any problems with 2 of them but my car has always been a bit unstable...developed 1Bar 1st and 2nd 1.2Bar in third 1,35Bar in 4th and 5th. However I had ongoing problems with gasket leaks (all three) and also felt that the w/g actuator was unreliable + I was using a very unimpressive hi-flowed turbo.

What boost do you get with the regulator turned all the way clockwise and the relief valve all the way ANTIclockwise. this is a starting point, Also is yout Factory solanoid still in the circuit or still plugged in.

Hi 51jay,

sorry dont have a camera and im pretty hopless on a comp so probably wouldnt have the knowhow to post them if i did,

the standard boost solinoid is no longer in the car, went for a drive in it last night with both valves open it ran 7psi till 5000 (around) and then started to creep to 10psi by redline its its really wierd like ive still got the factory solinoid in, i took the whole contoller off and just tryed to run with a hose from pleum to w/g and it done the same thing. so im guessin the problems with the car itself the funny thing is ive never had a problem with the boost creeping before i started screwin with it.

Hey Otto, I've got the same setup in my car, and it's workin fine...

Did you block up that other line that runs off the solenoid? I just used a bike tyre cap :)

The best thing to do is just run a setup like plennum -> black regulator -> wastegate. Make sure the regulator is fully open, and it should now be running on standard boost. It takes a bit of time, but go for a squirt and adjust the regulator 1 full turn at a time and see what your max boost hits... Once you have desired boost (10psi) then you're done with the regulator (but have a few runs so it hits 10psi max everytime). Then you have to put the pressure relief valve in front of that and do the same thing. I have mine setup so it only goes to 10psi, but you can run overboost if that's your liking.

It's pretty straight forward, let me know if you need anymore help.

Kyran.

thanks for the help guys,

im pretty sure now the problem is with my car and not the diy controller now, but i cant for the life of me figure out why its decided to start doing it.

damn, and runin a little more boost was my last thing to do before gettin the safc tuned which i have been dying to do for ages

hey otto,

I have the same setup, and have spent quite some time tweaking mine, and before anyone can give you any sort of confidence in their resoponse, we will need to see some pics of your setup before we can comment, but some things to look for:

- did u put all the valves the right way round?

- did u heck for any leaks?

- did u use clamps on the connections?

- Are the barbed fittings screwed on correctly?

- how long are the hoses? (I get a little spiking coz my hoses are long)

- Also remeber that the grey valve turns clockwise to reduce wastegate creep, and the black valve turns anticlockwise to increase boost. So relief valve fully anticlockwise and regulator fully clockwise to set boost to minimum.

you may have already checked these, but doesn't hurt to double check.....

sorry to butt in on this thread, but I was wondering what is done with regards to the stock boost control solenoid on an rb25. do you plug all the hoses but leave it connected to the ecu or do you disconnect it from the ecu also? i have done a search but cannot find a clear answer.

I eventually took the solenoid out

otto I'd be looking at the wastegate actuator first... is it being held fully closed ......you might be surprised!! also leaks in the gaskets turbo to dump, manifold to turbo and head to manifold. I now only use genuine Nissan gaskets for these after months of problems with boost stability.

this morning i disconected the w/g actuator and lockwired the w/g full open (w/g arm rotated around just under 90 deg about 80) then went for a drive, as expected the car wouldnt make any boost, then at around 4000rpm it started making boost, by 5000 it had 5psi and by redline just under 10psi. Does this sound unrealistic? i have no idea how to fix this problem??

I had this setup on for about 2 days then threw it away because the thermal stability is bloody ordinary.

The hotter the the valve gets the higher the boost gets, also the releif valve tends to let air through at a lower pressure once it's heated up. Maybe the BIT reg is a better one, i don't know, but based on the basic setup and the cost of the better/extra components you'd be better off spending an extra 50 bucks and buying a cheapy hybrid electronic boost controller.

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