Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes we definetly are. When I was living in perth I had my car insured for an agreed value of 26k at 1200 per year... cant remeber what the excess was but it wasnt high either.

Most insurance companies in melb wouldnt insure me for any less than 2.8 - 3k at an agreed value of 20k! even tho Im 23 and have had only two minor traffic fines.

I can understand where their coming from based on the arguments already made so Im definetly not bitching about that what does get to me tho is the price difference between east and west.

Is it just me, or are eastern staters getting shafted on insurance?  

I pay 650 a year for full comp on my R32 GTSt, in Perth. Even have my mods listed on the policy.  

Red17

man that's so good... even for a 26 year old. higher theft rates and stuff here i guess.

i also got a quote for an r32 gtst from young and cool for an 18 year old $4900 + high excess...

i'm in melbourne: full comp. for an r32 gtst for me at 18 years old from just cars. $3200 + $1800 excess... this would last for 7 years (as they drop when you hit 25) ... so 7 years of over 3 grand = 21+ thousand ****ing dollars = more than the cars worth = **** that... rather buy 2.5 skylines ha ha ha

it doesn't work that way - your rating will increase each year without an accident, so your premium will drop each year even though you are under 25... once you hit 25 it will drop even lower.

Also Murray - where/who is your insurance with for your GTR?

im 21, rating 3, and my R32 gtst is insured through just cars for $16700 agreed value, i live in a pretty low risk suburb, and have never had a speeding fine or an accident. I paid $1700 this year.

Im putting my money on ur brother paying $3500-4000.

Plus when you turn 22 with just car ur excess drop by about $400, then at 25 it drops about another $400... I think I did it the good way, slowly getting in more powerful cars without having an accident building up NCB... because that is the bottom line. That is your proof to them that you are a lower risk than someone who is the same age but drives like a dickhead.

Only problem is insurance company's assume all 17yr old drive like dickheads :rofl: ino i was pretty reckless at 17, just lucky i only had the power of an Astron 2600 under my foot ('83 Mitsubishi Sigma), not an RB20/25. I know which one s more forgiving :D

it doesn't work that way - your rating will increase each year without an accident, so your premium will drop each year even though you are under 25... once you hit 25 it will drop even lower.

Point taken... but roughly how much does the premium drop assuming i'm not in an accident every year?

Till you hit a BMW and have to pay for the damages........

3rd party (i'd be paying the excess)... then i'll be paying for my own car.

Is it just me, or are eastern staters getting shafted on insurance?

I pay 650 a year for full comp on my R32 GTSt, in Perth. Even have my mods listed on the policy.

Red17

thats the same amount i pay per year for full comp for my sII r33 GTSt!!!! agreed value is 27.5k...!!! i cant believe how much some people are paying for insurance...

and i am in melbourne!!

i got quoted $5200 for my R32 GTST after having P's for almost 1 year (was nearly 19) and i live in the country :P ...this was just cars

MAYBE he should have researched into buying a R32 a little more

Jetdat,

Your age puts you in a different league to these guys that are like 19 - 21 who have been quoted stoopid amounts for insurance. Once you hit 25 it goes down dramatically and I think 30 is another huge drop.

Terry

yeah thats true...i wasnt having a go at the boys....rather the insurance companies... i bought my line when i was 27...and i was rating 1...and i got quoted $1600 to $3500 from just cars depending on what time of the day i called!!!

unique cars were the best at $1650, but after many days of searching i ended up getting $850 from QBE...the following year premium went down to $650...

it pays to shop around....but my point is i dont trust those dodgy brothers insurance companies like just cars and unique farks...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...