Jump to content
SAU Community

Creaking/clicking Sound When Accelerating

ironpaw

By ironpaw,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
Posted

Went for a drive tonight in the rain and noticed that when I accelerated a creaking/clicking sound can be heard from the front passenger area.

I had a look under the wheel well but cannot find anything suspect.

Thought it might be the CV boot but I thought that only clicked when you are in full wheel lock?

any idea?

NISSAN GTR Veteran

NISSAN GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have a look a re-greasing your spline axle , i have had this issue with all 3 Nissans ive owned , same clicking prob every time !

hope this helps !!!!!!

Edited by NISSAN GTR
Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

There's a Nissan service bulletin on clicking axles as referred to by a few guys earlier. Maybe there is something in that?

I know you said it was coming from the front, but maybe the sound's playing tricks on you...

http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=104

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There's a Nissan service bulletin on clicking axles as referred to by a few guys earlier. Maybe there is something in that?

I know you said it was coming from the front, but maybe the sound's playing tricks on you...

http://www.m35stagea...c.php?f=2&t=104

Interesting...

Whats even more interesting is that I think the issue is caused by water/moisture.

The only days where I hear this clicking is when its raining hard...and today, as I drove to work, I had to go through a big puddle.

As soon as I drove out of the puddle the clicking noise returns...

WTF?

bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
Posted

I have the same noise, its not very noticeable but under hard acceleration it makes a creak noise. At first I thought it was pinging, but had that checked and it only does it when the drive train loads up. I was told a warn bush or swaybar link could cause it.

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have the same noise, its not very noticeable but under hard acceleration it makes a creak noise. At first I thought it was pinging, but had that checked and it only does it when the drive train loads up. I was told a warn bush or swaybar link could cause it.

found a good list here:

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/automobile-clicking-sound

I'm thinking either:

Shocks/swaybar/CV boot

Issue is. Why is it only noticable AFTER it gets wet??

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

did you bring it around to scotts for him to hear?

maybe its an electrical short? they make clicking sounds..

mine was and I found out when I shoved boost line through one of the gromets there was a water leak..

this would screw up my indicators etc.. and only when it rained as yours is.

but it made a clicking sound/which is also an electrical short sound...

it could also probably explain your leak in the car..

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
  • Author
Posted

did you bring it around to scotts for him to hear?

maybe its an electrical short? they make clicking sounds..

mine was and I found out when I shoved boost line through one of the gromets there was a water leak..

this would screw up my indicators etc.. and only when it rained as yours is.

but it made a clicking sound/which is also an electrical short sound...

it could also probably explain your leak in the car..

hmm nah didn't get a chance to go to Scott's last nite....

Probably go around this weekend...I'm fairly certain its not an electrical sound though,.....garrrh dunno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • Milkmun
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Milkmun · Posted

      When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...