Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have an R33 Rb25det in my R32 running all the R32 sensors and intake etc. Now it has blown up recently and I figured I might as well replace it with a NEO if I have to swap the motor out, now can I re use my rb20 intake, fuel rail, coilpacks, knock sensors etc all on the neo motor? or are there differences and they wont fit?

I realise there are threads on the differences but I thought this was a fairly specific example so was hoping you guys could help me out!

Thanks guys :)

it seems that you have done f**k all home work to even consider this.

Even a quick 30 second glance over the RB20 intake and RB25NEO intake shows they are very different, and definitely a poor choice. Maybe this is why your R33 blew up...

And what makes you think RB20 injectors and ECU is gonig to be enough for a RB25NEO?

I suggest you have a bit more of a think, rather than asking stupid questions here.

Edited by The Mafia

Woah relax mafia, I'm just asking some friendly questions, no need to be hostile. I realise the intakes are different which is the point of this thread, the question is do they bolt up to the same spots, eg will the R33 intake (and hence R32 as they are the same) bolt up to an R34 NEO motor? If they were the same I wouldn't be asking lol, this thread is my homework! I've done some searching but I still have no answers to these questions.

I have GTR injectors and R32 ecu with a nistune, they are fine for my 240kw R33 rb25det and I aim to make similar power on the NEO motor so the question is will the fuel rail bolt up the same or does the NEO intake have a completely different rail mount?

My 25det blew up because my cam shaft snapped causing the valves to smash the pistons, had nothing to do with using an rb20 intake on an rb25, they are very similar.

I posted this thread because I thought someone might know off the top of their head whether these items bolt up the same, or if they are completely different, if I just think about it I won't gain any knowledge. You are free to ignore my thread if you wish, but I would welcome any constructive help or advice you can give.

Also its Saturday night man, relax we are all friends here.

:)

Edited by Rolls

mafias just being typically condescending....

but i'm pretty sure the 20 intake doesnt work with the neo. if your set on a neo the best bet would be to sell your whole motor as a package and buy a neo package, swapping the turbos in the process to keep your larger one.

Yeah if it doesn't bolt up then that is what I will have to do, does anyone know if GTR injectors bolt into the neo rail? I'm not sure if they are side feed or top feed.

Any other key differences I will need to make note of? What about the exhaust manifold and dump, are they in the same location? The ignition system as well I can't imagine matters, surely they have the same coil pack mounts that I can just bolt mine into or will that need to change as well? If not do you know if I can still use my rb20 loom to power the ignition system? Just trying to avoid having to rewire my car as I'd like to just put the motor in and use as many of my existing sensors as possible. Sounds like it might be a bit of a pain but all the tuners I've spoken to say there is a reasonable power difference, also the motor will be newer and hopefully more reliable compared to a 33 one if they've had the same treatment.

Oh also knock sensors, surely they use the same mounts but could anyone confirm?

I can't seem to find any bare motors anyway so I will just get the whole NEO motor so I can use what I can off my old one and swap some of the newer gear in.

Anyway cheers Jonno

Edited by Rolls

if you go neo you will have to start from scratch basically. you'll need to use a neo loom and ecu (cant use any of your other RB loom or ecu) use the neo intake manifold.. the exhaust side of things is all the same. GTR injectors wont fit. so if you were to do it. i would sell all your gear off and get some deka injectors, nistune for the 34 ecu. and wack your turbo and manifold on.

neo ftw... worlds most reliable engine. MORE reliable then an rb20.... ooooh i went there

actually I think it is just the cross over pipe etc that is rb20,

if I have to do loom and ecu etc with the neo then it is sounding like it might be a tad too expensive to do, might just pull the head off the motor first see what my options are.

Woah relax mafia, I'm just asking some friendly questions,

I have GTR injectors and R32 ecu with a nistune, they are fine for my 240kw R33 rb25det and I aim to make similar power on the NEO motor so the question is will the fuel rail bolt up the same or does the NEO intake have a completely different rail mount?

:)

well, why leave out the most important information?

This is just a suggestion, but wouldn't you rather just bang another R33 motor in and spend the extra cash on making it more awesome? Seems like a lot of dicking around for not a whole lot of gain.. especially at that power level. If you wanted to bump it up to 300rwkw I'd understand the decision more.

Yeah hence why I doubt I will do it now, if it was as simple as just putting it in and using my existing gear I would do it, but it sounds like a lot of effort (and money) to go neo.

Going to take the head off my old motor first, see if its just a new head I need, might be a cheaper solution.

Edited by Rolls

This is why i hate SAU. What a bunch of *%@!'s.. Mafia, if you don't know the answer just f%ck off. The answer he wants is a simple yes or no. With that said -

Simply putting it Rb20 intake won't physically bolt up to R33 RB25, but it will to the R32 RB25.

R33 RB25 intake manifold and R34 Neo Turbo intake (Non turbo has much smaller ports) are are fully interchangeable.

So in theory if you have an R33 engine in it now, and you bolt that intake manifold onto a R34 Neo turbo, and are then using R33 sensors on your NEO, you can use your existing loom, and coil packs(which will also bolt on) with the exception of R34 CAS which you can actually wire an R34 plug onto and will still work fine. (altough from memory the wires have a dif. pin location so would pay to check that first). Use and or graft any other lower loome plugs to suit you.

and to anyone else, why does it matter to you why he wants to do it? I would think that it would have something to do with the fact that they are a newer engine, solid lifters, etc, etc. So if you were going to buy a 2nd hand engine, wouldn't you buy the newest and best you could? I can tell you after wiring a few Neo's into R33's this would definalty be an easier option if you havent done one before.

  • Like 1

Oh btw, sorry to hear about your engine. I have seen a 25 exhaust cam snap in 2 before, but not 3... We had an N1 rb26 snap the timing belt idler bolt. bent 24 valves in a great fashion. barely marked the pistons, took them out (they were ross racing forged pistons), had them examined & tested. perfect. So hope you have the same luck with your misfortune.

Cheers.

So I can use injectors and the rb20/rb25 S1/S2 coilpacks with their existing loom? I imagine the only thing that needs to be the same is the bolt holes for the coilpack mounts. Same with the fuel rail mounts. Same goes for knock sensors, if they plug into the same spot with the same mounts I should be able to use my existing ones.

As if I only have to change the cross over pipe, cas plugs and a few other items it would make it worth while going the NEO, but if I have no option but to go NEO ecu and loom it makes it more expensive than I'm prepared to spend.

Ultimately if all I need is a new head I might just go down that route anyway.

yeah mate personally if i was in your shoes i'd be out in the shed right now and whip that head off... then make a decision from there. if the piston crowns are all ok and no damage to anything other then valves then just do a head swap and save your self a head f**k (you see what i did there) post pics of the head and bottom end if you are un sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...