Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Keeps Shutting Off While Stopping

Dylaan

By Dylaan,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dylaan Veteran

Dylaan

Posted
Posted

So I was driving to work today and when i was coming to a stop I put the clutch in and the revs just dropped to 0. I thought it was a bit strange, but I kept going. About 20 meters down the road it happened again. While on my break at work it drove it around and it was fine when it was cold since the revs would stay up but when it got warm they just dropped to zero every time i stopped. I noticed it was alot worse when the lights were on and also when I turn the lights on I can hear a squeelings noise from the engine bay. Is this an alternator problem? I thought it was something to do with the fuel pump untill I noticed the lights making a difference with the problem. Before I get flammed I did a search on the topic and couldn't find what I needed.

thanks, Dylan

are bee's Collaborator

are bee's

Posted
Posted

Had an almost identical problem with my 32 gts-t, fine when it was cold but once it had warmed up or if it was a hot day the revs would just do whatever the hell they wanted, hunt like crazy, idle at a constant 2000rpm, or just drop straight to 0 and stall (this being the most common). However mine wasn't an electrical problem, took it into ASG who told me i needed to replace the stock ECU, my injectors were leaking and something about the AFM being wrong. Probably not a huge help to you but something to make sure isn't the case I guess.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

no it wont be the alternator

check the airflow meter plug, make sure it is secure

look for any damage or excessive dirt etc

reset the stock ecu (undo battery terminal in boot (the ground cable) and press brake pedal)

if it still happens you need to get a consult cable and run stock ecu diag

sloazr33 Proficient

sloazr33

Posted
Posted

last time I had the afm off I noticed that there was a fair bit of gunk built up in it, should i clean this out? Why do I need to press the brake pedal while reseting the ecu?

yes, and pressing the brake pedal drains any residual power from the ECU

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

So I was driving to work today and when i was coming to a stop I put the clutch in and the revs just dropped to 0. I thought it was a bit strange, but I kept going. About 20 meters down the road it happened again. While on my break at work it drove it around and it was fine when it was cold since the revs would stay up but when it got warm they just dropped to zero every time i stopped. I noticed it was alot worse when the lights were on and also when I turn the lights on I can hear a squeelings noise from the engine bay. Is this an alternator problem? I thought it was something to do with the fuel pump untill I noticed the lights making a difference with the problem. Before I get flammed I did a search on the topic and couldn't find what I needed.

thanks, Dylan

heres something weird...the same time u posted this my car started doing the exact same thing :unsure:

I find if i rev the crap out of it it often fixes itself, personally i think it is gunk buildup on the o2 sensor ..but it could be a number of things..

Fullboost_Performance Apprentice

Fullboost_Performance

Posted
Posted

Hey mate i had exactly the same problem with my old R33, took to a place called NT Performance Turbocharging in Western suburbs(melbourne), dropped it off in the morning and by the afternoon i had it back, car has been fine since !!! Worth maybe giving them a call, Simon there really knows his stuff with skylines!

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

dont goto a workshop for something basic like that

read what the others have posted

learn how to debug and fix it yourself

the ECU has on board diagnostics so theres nothing magical a workshop can do that you cant find out

Dylaan Veteran

Dylaan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well I think it's the alternator still because my belt has been squeeling for a while, sometimes it turns over very slowly but always starts, when I turned my lights on the revs would always dip a bit. And yesterday after I reset the ECU and cleaned the afm the car was running okay untill I turned the lights on.

Panko Collaborator

Panko

Posted
Posted

Check all 6 spark plugs see if all of them are covered in unburnt fuel, if they are. Check the ECT sensor

(engine coolant temperature sensor) if the sensor is dead, it over fueled the piston during idling and

will cause it to stall.

ECT sensor located at the thermostat housing by the way.

It would be the ECT sensor if the problem only occuring when the engine is hot or at the working temperature

and run smoothly while cold.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

would that cause the idle to stick on 2000?

cause mine did that last week but hasn't done it again, It was on a dyno few weeks back it was running rich but didnt have time to source a problem.

There is another sensor at bottom of radiator, is that just a gauge sensor? I never put it in when I changed the radiator initially, but since I have put it back in I've been having these problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...