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So I was driving to work today and when i was coming to a stop I put the clutch in and the revs just dropped to 0. I thought it was a bit strange, but I kept going. About 20 meters down the road it happened again. While on my break at work it drove it around and it was fine when it was cold since the revs would stay up but when it got warm they just dropped to zero every time i stopped. I noticed it was alot worse when the lights were on and also when I turn the lights on I can hear a squeelings noise from the engine bay. Is this an alternator problem? I thought it was something to do with the fuel pump untill I noticed the lights making a difference with the problem. Before I get flammed I did a search on the topic and couldn't find what I needed.

thanks, Dylan

Had an almost identical problem with my 32 gts-t, fine when it was cold but once it had warmed up or if it was a hot day the revs would just do whatever the hell they wanted, hunt like crazy, idle at a constant 2000rpm, or just drop straight to 0 and stall (this being the most common). However mine wasn't an electrical problem, took it into ASG who told me i needed to replace the stock ECU, my injectors were leaking and something about the AFM being wrong. Probably not a huge help to you but something to make sure isn't the case I guess.

no it wont be the alternator

check the airflow meter plug, make sure it is secure

look for any damage or excessive dirt etc

reset the stock ecu (undo battery terminal in boot (the ground cable) and press brake pedal)

if it still happens you need to get a consult cable and run stock ecu diag

last time I had the afm off I noticed that there was a fair bit of gunk built up in it, should i clean this out? Why do I need to press the brake pedal while reseting the ecu?

yes, and pressing the brake pedal drains any residual power from the ECU

So I was driving to work today and when i was coming to a stop I put the clutch in and the revs just dropped to 0. I thought it was a bit strange, but I kept going. About 20 meters down the road it happened again. While on my break at work it drove it around and it was fine when it was cold since the revs would stay up but when it got warm they just dropped to zero every time i stopped. I noticed it was alot worse when the lights were on and also when I turn the lights on I can hear a squeelings noise from the engine bay. Is this an alternator problem? I thought it was something to do with the fuel pump untill I noticed the lights making a difference with the problem. Before I get flammed I did a search on the topic and couldn't find what I needed.

thanks, Dylan

heres something weird...the same time u posted this my car started doing the exact same thing :unsure:

I find if i rev the crap out of it it often fixes itself, personally i think it is gunk buildup on the o2 sensor ..but it could be a number of things..

Hey mate i had exactly the same problem with my old R33, took to a place called NT Performance Turbocharging in Western suburbs(melbourne), dropped it off in the morning and by the afternoon i had it back, car has been fine since !!! Worth maybe giving them a call, Simon there really knows his stuff with skylines!

dont goto a workshop for something basic like that

read what the others have posted

learn how to debug and fix it yourself

the ECU has on board diagnostics so theres nothing magical a workshop can do that you cant find out

well I think it's the alternator still because my belt has been squeeling for a while, sometimes it turns over very slowly but always starts, when I turned my lights on the revs would always dip a bit. And yesterday after I reset the ECU and cleaned the afm the car was running okay untill I turned the lights on.

Check all 6 spark plugs see if all of them are covered in unburnt fuel, if they are. Check the ECT sensor

(engine coolant temperature sensor) if the sensor is dead, it over fueled the piston during idling and

will cause it to stall.

ECT sensor located at the thermostat housing by the way.

It would be the ECT sensor if the problem only occuring when the engine is hot or at the working temperature

and run smoothly while cold.

would that cause the idle to stick on 2000?

cause mine did that last week but hasn't done it again, It was on a dyno few weeks back it was running rich but didnt have time to source a problem.

There is another sensor at bottom of radiator, is that just a gauge sensor? I never put it in when I changed the radiator initially, but since I have put it back in I've been having these problems.

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