Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was driving to work today and when i was coming to a stop I put the clutch in and the revs just dropped to 0. I thought it was a bit strange, but I kept going. About 20 meters down the road it happened again. While on my break at work it drove it around and it was fine when it was cold since the revs would stay up but when it got warm they just dropped to zero every time i stopped. I noticed it was alot worse when the lights were on and also when I turn the lights on I can hear a squeelings noise from the engine bay. Is this an alternator problem? I thought it was something to do with the fuel pump untill I noticed the lights making a difference with the problem. Before I get flammed I did a search on the topic and couldn't find what I needed.

thanks, Dylan

Had an almost identical problem with my 32 gts-t, fine when it was cold but once it had warmed up or if it was a hot day the revs would just do whatever the hell they wanted, hunt like crazy, idle at a constant 2000rpm, or just drop straight to 0 and stall (this being the most common). However mine wasn't an electrical problem, took it into ASG who told me i needed to replace the stock ECU, my injectors were leaking and something about the AFM being wrong. Probably not a huge help to you but something to make sure isn't the case I guess.

no it wont be the alternator

check the airflow meter plug, make sure it is secure

look for any damage or excessive dirt etc

reset the stock ecu (undo battery terminal in boot (the ground cable) and press brake pedal)

if it still happens you need to get a consult cable and run stock ecu diag

last time I had the afm off I noticed that there was a fair bit of gunk built up in it, should i clean this out? Why do I need to press the brake pedal while reseting the ecu?

yes, and pressing the brake pedal drains any residual power from the ECU

So I was driving to work today and when i was coming to a stop I put the clutch in and the revs just dropped to 0. I thought it was a bit strange, but I kept going. About 20 meters down the road it happened again. While on my break at work it drove it around and it was fine when it was cold since the revs would stay up but when it got warm they just dropped to zero every time i stopped. I noticed it was alot worse when the lights were on and also when I turn the lights on I can hear a squeelings noise from the engine bay. Is this an alternator problem? I thought it was something to do with the fuel pump untill I noticed the lights making a difference with the problem. Before I get flammed I did a search on the topic and couldn't find what I needed.

thanks, Dylan

heres something weird...the same time u posted this my car started doing the exact same thing :unsure:

I find if i rev the crap out of it it often fixes itself, personally i think it is gunk buildup on the o2 sensor ..but it could be a number of things..

Hey mate i had exactly the same problem with my old R33, took to a place called NT Performance Turbocharging in Western suburbs(melbourne), dropped it off in the morning and by the afternoon i had it back, car has been fine since !!! Worth maybe giving them a call, Simon there really knows his stuff with skylines!

dont goto a workshop for something basic like that

read what the others have posted

learn how to debug and fix it yourself

the ECU has on board diagnostics so theres nothing magical a workshop can do that you cant find out

well I think it's the alternator still because my belt has been squeeling for a while, sometimes it turns over very slowly but always starts, when I turned my lights on the revs would always dip a bit. And yesterday after I reset the ECU and cleaned the afm the car was running okay untill I turned the lights on.

Check all 6 spark plugs see if all of them are covered in unburnt fuel, if they are. Check the ECT sensor

(engine coolant temperature sensor) if the sensor is dead, it over fueled the piston during idling and

will cause it to stall.

ECT sensor located at the thermostat housing by the way.

It would be the ECT sensor if the problem only occuring when the engine is hot or at the working temperature

and run smoothly while cold.

would that cause the idle to stick on 2000?

cause mine did that last week but hasn't done it again, It was on a dyno few weeks back it was running rich but didnt have time to source a problem.

There is another sensor at bottom of radiator, is that just a gauge sensor? I never put it in when I changed the radiator initially, but since I have put it back in I've been having these problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...