Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 376
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

There are issues at their end with DNS etc that can cause a few problems and increase your ping. Mine hovers around 300 all the time.

Yep play it the same way as it is bassically the same tank but just not as good but it most of the time you are the top Tank :D

I have played just 6 games for 5 wins, the loss and first game I had 7 kills but we were capped. Lowe makes more money and more easily with it's much better gun.

There are issues at their end with DNS etc that can cause a few problems and increase your ping. Mine hovers around 300 all the time.

I have played just 6 games for 5 wins, the loss and first game I had 7 kills but we were capped. Lowe makes more money and more easily with it's much better gun.

yeah the lowe does and so does the T34 but i prefer the play style of a medium so i play it more than the others

Finally received the Ace Tanker badge on the Type 59 after 16 battles.

This kent tells me he 'saved' me from a KV-5 after repeatedly shooting my VK4502A in ass with his Grille instead of shooting either the KV-5 or the E8 that was actually doing damage to me not the KV-5. Should have just TK'd the POS.

42%ers should be executed in the streets, just saying.

Just "downgraded" from my T25 AT to a T28 TD... useless slow paper weight.

I want my T25 AT back!

Also thinking off selling off that 1/2 useless "pretending to be a med but fails" IS-8 to fund for IS-7.

Yeah after I unlocked the T28 I sold the T25 AT but didn't buy the T28, only way I would play it is if I free XP'd the parts and tier 10 gun.

I think I'll go down the second line to the T30 instead.

Getting pretty close to the T110.

IS-8 was sold after one game, I see no point keeping an inferior tank. Barely even played the IS-4. plus I needed the credits for the Object 704 and it's sweet sweet BL-10.

I used free xp to get the final 120 gun for the T28 & my final verdict is still the same: "useless slow heavy paper weight rubbish" & "I wasted my gold on this POS?!"

Can't rely on the so called '254mm' frontal armor at all since the useless thing has too many weak spots at the front & get pentrated frequently even by a Tiger H & its too dam slow so if you are spotted you pretty much f**ked neither way.

Played 10 games with it & already want to threw its useless US arse to the bin (like that Panther I had for 10 games, sold shortly after in the same day). Only thing stopping me doing it is that I already wasted gold on it...

EDIT: screw the gold, just sold its arse regardless, buying back my T25 AT.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

The Panther is a decent tank.

The T28 is not.

Picked up the T110 then my premium ran out :( Training up the T110 crew in the T34. Shame the T34 is such a turd of a tank. Doesn't suit my play style at all and has all the same 'this is not a heavy it's a crap TD' issues the T30 had/has.

Lowe shits on it from a great height in all but alpha damage really.

I love it when people that are dead tell me what not to do, I do it and kill everyone, like a boss. Type 59 player was telling me to rush back down the hill on campinovka, drove up and killed a M103, IS-8 and IS-3. Love the 704, averaging over 3k damage a game iirc.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah that was a pub game, I was mid table.

Since getting the WoT assistant it turns out arty is dragging me down, I have something like a 40% overall win rate in arty with everything else fairly high. Apparently anything 55% win rate and above is in the top handful % of players.

Playing the Russian little arty anyway, not great so far.

I still LOVE the 704, wish I had gone the Russian TD line from the start and just played the shit out of that tank, it's epic.

I'm having a good run with my Grille, that thing seem to be firing homing missiles...

I aimed at tanks while the aim circle wasn't even fully closed yet it still hits them most of the time. This compared to that M37 always seem to miss even when I have the aim circle pretty much on top of the target.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...