Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Dump Pipe Install

rhysc1986

By rhysc1986,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rhysc1986 Collaborator

rhysc1986

Posted
Posted

anyone got a install guide for R32 GTR dump pipes? i took front pipes off and now trying to get dump pipes off is shitfight. looking at just getting ratchet spanner hoping that might make it easier. car is now in pieces so any quick help appricated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361613-r32-gtr-dump-pipe-install/
Share on other sites
SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

depends...are you upgrading the turbos?

i started mid day saterday, had the turbos off by 7ish that night, then turbos on sunday morning and finished abit after lunch

but i had all the tools, all new gaskets etc etc so i didnt waste time to go source parts, plus i was lucky and my oil/oil lines didnt crack like alot do due to age

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Put it this way, if you arent sure what changing the turbos would involve off the top of your head, you surely arent ready to handle such a task.

I have done many conversions and do not like the idea of doing GTR turbos with the motor in the bay.

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

i've done this without taking the turbos off, did it over 2 days and a few trips to the shop for a couple of tools I didn't have. You'll need a 13mm crescent wrench for some of the turbo to dump bolts. Getting the dump off the front turbo is possible without removing the rear turbo, but it may be made easier if you loosen the rear turbo to manifold bolts so you can move it a little. Here's some pics. It doesn't mean it's easier to do with turbos on though, just possble......post-48345-0-60735200-1303342764_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-10348300-1303342732_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-56935300-1303342695_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-10152600-1303342657_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-65060200-1303342605_thumb.jpg

dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted

I wrote this a while ago, might be relevant to your situation:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_GTR-Revisited/A_111537/article.html

As said above, it's probably easier to remove the turbos. If for no other reason, than with the turbos out, you can be sure you get a nice even clamp with the bolts onto the turbo/dump gasket.

Removing turbos is not actually that hard if you carefully read the factory instruction manual and follow the sequence of removing stuff.

Also, remove the power steering pump - it seems like pointeless work but trust me it makes the job that much easier.

Also invest in a set of ratcheting spanners.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...