Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i rang up redlineperformance today an quoted me $3061 for -5 and $3061for -9 both the same price.cheers for the help guys

Was the -9 price with or without actuators? AFAIK -5 and -7 come with actuators and -9s dont (unless you get the alternative part number which includes them)

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mrstabby if you dont mine could you write up the list of mods of your GTR.

Im thinking about getting a denso fuel pump http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=371561757 what you guys think ?

tomei type S FPR will be ok ?

You won't need an aftermarket FPR for a GTR as the factory one works really well.

The only reason you might want one is to squeeze a bit more fuel out of injectors rather than upgrading them, but that's about it.

Anything bigger than stock will be enough mate.

You only need a tiny bit more. Hence you could just bump the rail pressure a bit if you wanted to save cash but it *might* not be enough and is probably a good idea to get new ones anyway or at least your existing ones cleaned + fuel pump

Go on Ebay, OS and Nismo twin plates come up all the time for between 500 and 800 (used)

Be warned they might require a rebuild thouhg, but still a good deal since these clutches cost minimum $2000 new.

Hey GTR33NZ check these out http://www.trademe.c...n-371575845.htm

Will i need to replace my coil packs at 300kw ? the head gasket will handle 300kw yea ?

Edited by nitestage32

Mrstabby if you dont mine could you write up the list of mods of your GTR.

Here you go: from the RB26 sticky.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5137973

Since you've got the 700s use them instead of an FPR. My standard coilpacks are fine with iridiums at 0.8mm.

Depends on what you want and stuff mate.

Nothing wrong with running -9s on a built motor. It'll make a solid 330rwkw, be responsive as all buggery and be an absolute street weapon. So if thats all you want then you'll not need to change turbos!

I've got 370rwkw now with -5s... I'd rather the response of -9s and 330-340rwkw. Admittedly I'm running less boost on the -5s than i could but response is king for a street car and makes it so much nicer to drive.

I don't dislike my -5 setup. However nothing really happens until 150km/h where the -9s were much more exciting between 60-150km/h

+1 on R31nismoid comment...

i had stock engine and changed mine to -9's....i WAS not impressed with my 286kW, but now, after sitting in a gtr with -5's on stock motor, i am proud to say that i made a good choice of getting -9's!!!!!it is so much responsive....

and also thanks to R31nismoid for all the info that you gave me...

I personally think, it is better to start from the begining rather than taking shortcuts to do any mods....take stage's of mod at a time and you will notice the difference....

now i am going to see the difference of stock GTR compare to mine and i will see the difference....

Down side is i just got EPA for exhaust been too loud and i noticed that its gone louder compare to the sound i had when i had stock exhaust....better turbo's i guess...

Stay off ebay man. It's far too dangerous, especially injectors which are important.

Buy reputable brands, from reputable businesses.

I have had rc 550cc for over 5 years now. There fine, big enough / reputable brand in the states. Came with a flow report of each injector in the box, which was good.

But I didn't buy them off ebay, was through a workshop in sydney.

We can source -9's at very competitive prices (Competitive based off all the price info on this thread anyhow!)

Matt

Highly recommend going through matt very competitive prices!!

keep an eye out on the for sale section you may find a good bargain

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...