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Hi mate, I am confident that I could fix the leaky solinod and pipe problem.

But Ive struck another problem.

I think the tiny cup seal of the pump pistons is leaking under vacume for the front side of abs unit.

I can bleed the rear on abs and remove air but not the front.

I'm had the same problem yesterday. One side bleeds nicely, the other never clears. So i persisted and that appears to have eventually stuffed it.

When I installed the ABS a year ago I used a vac pump and had one side not clearing, but I assumed that it was just leaking around the bleed screw like you mentioned, since the pedal was quite good. Yesterday I was trying with a one man bleeder (one way valve) and that's when it really died. Foot straight to the floor now. FFFUUUUUUU

Stuff it. I'll get a new ABS (hopefully the dollars high against the yen as well as the greenback).

I am after a abs unit to play with to see if that I can get it to seal, so if anyone has a unit I can have I'll do the work, I'd remove mine again and go from there but I have to have car on the Rd family commitments & work.

I did manage to dramaticaly reduce leakes around solinods and didn't replace a single seal,but I could't do the job as compleatly as I would have liked as 3 of the 4 the pipes didn't want to come out on mine and I can't risk breaking something and no car, so job had to be 1/4 done.

I still have another option, but I need 1 to play with.

So if any one has a donor unit, please contact me.

If you have 1 that blead up ok , but still leaked this is what I'm after as looking for a seals would be the 2nd phase of fix. :thanks:

Edited by nobby

I am after a abs unit to play with to see if that I can get it to seal

I have the one I attempted to fix with the o-rings from that list that was posted here ages ago, but I'm assuming you want one with the correct (original) seals in it, right?

EDIT: Actually you could probably have the one that's in the car now - its useless, car is not drivable.... PM me.

I'm had the same problem yesterday. One side bleeds nicely, the other never clears. So i persisted and that appears to have eventually stuffed it.

When I installed the ABS a year ago I used a vac pump and had one side not clearing, but I assumed that it was just leaking around the bleed screw like you mentioned, since the pedal was quite good. Yesterday I was trying with a one man bleeder (one way valve) and that's when it really died. Foot straight to the floor now. FFFUUUUUUU

Stuff it. I'll get a new ABS (hopefully the dollars high against the yen as well as the greenback).

Can't say for a fact someone once told me ( who managed a business buying/importing ) that Tuesdays was the day for buying overseas, something do do with when dollars are valued and Tue was best day.

Bleed screw was the intial problem but thread tape fixes that, and I recon with vac you only adjust bleeder minimal times this solves that problem.

I'd just buy 1 to, but personal family reasons don't allow this indulgence.

I have the one I attempted to fix with the o-rings from that list that was posted here ages ago, but I'm assuming you want one with the correct (original) seals in it, right?

EDIT: Actually you could probably have the one that's in the car now - its useless, car is not drivable.... PM me.

That would be nice ABS Labled Part No is 47600-05U00 isn't it. I'd have both as having Comparisons are king.

Edited by nobby
  • 2 years later...

Pretty sure the bcnr33 and 34 units are different. FYI i poked around FAST and it might be that part number 47600-05U00 is only for Aug89 to Aug91. If you're Aug91 or later PM me your vin and ill see what FAST says.

Edit: BCNR33 part number comes up as 47600-98U25, so definitely different.

I know they are different, I am trying to see about using the abs actuator from a bnr34 along with the abs/ets computer. I know the plugs is also different.

Pretty sure the bcnr33 and 34 units are different. FYI i poked around FAST and it might be that part number 47600-05U00 is only for Aug89 to Aug91. If you're Aug91 or later PM me your vin and ill see what FAST says.

Edit: BCNR33 part number comes up as 47600-98U25, so definitely different.

Ok here's what I did to my R32 gtr ABS around 2yrs ago to stop the leak.

(my previous posts may revel time frame, to busy to look back)

"NO brake cleaning products used on any old rubber seals or o-rings, period"

All parts were systematically listed and placed in a tackle type container with container labled for reference prior to reassembly

I disassembled Abs as much as possible, through clean with brake clean.

I say much as possible as one of the pipes between body upper and lower didn't want to come away from 1 half so what was stuck was left alone.

I did alot of looking on internet and from memory viton seal have butal rubber as an componite used in the seals, and I found by chance A brake squeal product had this "butal" in it.

All Seals were all washed in warm soapy water, rinsed off & towel dry.

Once clean and dry, I layed the seals on a sheet of card board and lightly sprayed 1 side.

Then lifted off with a fine wire hook and then 1 at a time flipped over still holding onto o-ring raised on it's edge not laying flat and lightly coated the other side and hung each one up to dry individually.

Copper wire strands is what I fashioned small hooks/hanger out of.

I used disc brake squeal on old body seal orings, " Not the moving/,valve seals".

Lubed all moving seals with a little rubberr grease and reassembled.

also lubed brake line connects with rubber grease.

and a little thread tape on bleed screw to stop back suction and or leak when bleeding. that was approx 2 yrs ago and no leak still.

Any parts that needed a seal surface touched up, I sprayed a bit on a brush and hand painted it on

I take no responsibility for anyone else trying some, any or all of my idea on ABS repair.

It's your responsibility all the way.

Auto notice alerted me to new posts on subject and in the festive season I thought I'd share.

Please guys I'm very busy fitting solar system and prob won't find time any time soon to reply to questions.

Happy Christmas and safe New Year.

Nobby.

Edited by nobby
  • 3 months later...

Resurrecting again - I'm currently tossing up whether to attempt the reconditioning outlined in this article or just bite the bullet and buy a new ABS unit. I already had the leaking unit replaced with a second hand unit once - around 6 years ago - but surely the stock of second hand units is deteriorating at much the same rate as the ones in my car.

Just wanted to know has anyone identified a source of rebuild seals?

Also does anyone have a link to where they are sold new? Quick google search flooded results page with second hand units but I'll either attempt the reco or buy a new unit (even if around $1500... ouch. Figure if it gets me another 20 years, might be able to justify the expense).

I was told that with the full race etc you can get the r33/r34 abs since the full race is a standalone unit so your abs will still work.

Resurrecting again - I'm currently tossing up whether to attempt the reconditioning outlined in this article or just bite the bullet and buy a new ABS unit. I already had the leaking unit replaced with a second hand unit once - around 6 years ago - but surely the stock of second hand units is deteriorating at much the same rate as the ones in my car.

Just wanted to know has anyone identified a source of rebuild seals?

Also does anyone have a link to where they are sold new? Quick google search flooded results page with second hand units but I'll either attempt the reco or buy a new unit (even if around $1500... ouch. Figure if it gets me another 20 years, might be able to justify the expense).

I was told that with the full race etc you can get the r33/r34 abs since the full race is a standalone unit so your abs will still work.

Sorry, didn't quite gather what is full race. I have a standalone VIPEC ecu but does this allow some flexibility of using later model ABS units? Any links would be appreciated.

http://www.gtrusablog.com/2012/11/upgraded-and-programmable-attesa-from.html

Sorry, didn't quite gather what is full race. I have a standalone VIPEC ecu but does this allow some flexibility of using later model ABS units? Any links would be appreciated.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

I have looked into upgrading the ABS in my R32 GTR if I'm not successful with rebuilding my ABS. I'm realistically 6 months away from doing this, but it is doable.

- Run new wires for R34 ABS pump from the R34 Attesa/ABS ecu as it has 3 extra solenoids.

- Wire in a solenoid and resistor so the R34 ABS/Attesa ecu thinks it still has the active diff in.

- Change the chassis loom plug over for the R34 Attesa/ABS ecu and R34 ABS unit.
- Bend up new brake lines to and from the R34 ABS pump.

I would only do this to a car that has properly functioning 4WD and a clean, preferably recently rebuilt brake system. I would also only get an ABS unit that has been carefully removed from the car and hasn't had crap been allowed to enter the system.

Edited by dontfeelcold
  • Like 1

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