Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased Dan/Halle's old HKS 2835 Pro S and am getting it fitted by Sam at Dr Drift at the end of the month.

My concern is though; Sam told me, because the bellmouth of the turbo is 4", that a 4" intake will need to be fabricated to stop compressor surge occurring. Unfortunately this means, having to fit a 4" pod filter because I don't want to butcher the standard airbox and relocating the Z32 AFM to the cold pipe because it's only 3". Which then means having to relocate the bov so it doesn't count the recirculated air again (I think). All which means a lot more money to get the thing installed.

My question is: The HKS kit, brand new, comes with a solid 3" intake with a 4" to 3" reducer which can be directly bolted to airbox. I can't imagine HKS would release a kit that is prone to surging. Should I pay Sam to do all the extra work, or is it not necessary and can I save myself a lot of money just asking him to fabricate and fit a 3" intake.

Anyone running the same kit, what did you do?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362835-hks-2835-intake-3-or-4/
Share on other sites

I ran a GT30 4" intake that fed back to a Z32 AFM size... 24psi/370rwk was no issue on fuel, 270rwkw on 17psi on PULP.

As long as there is a reasonable amount of 4" piping to a reducer to the AFM size, it'll be fine.

There was a thread about this recently actually, ended up 2-3 pages long with examples of a 3" to 4" pipe, lots of setups 300rwkw without a problem.

WTF? That is nonsense >_<

Sorry, you're right. It was something else that he tried to explain to me, but I didn't understand. Something about returning to idle after load could cause stalling.

Anyways, I called him back to question whether is was totally necessary. He convinced me I should do it anyway. Dr Drift comes highly praised from friend and here, I decided to trust his judgment. :D

Just FYI.... HKS provide the 4" to 3" reducer along with the 3" intake pipe with the kit.

I mentioned that, and asked why would they supply a suction pipe that could cause issues.

He replied with, HKS also sell shitty mushroom filters and the hectic ssqv :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...