Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst Problem Child

beemae30

By beemae30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Could very well be the issue. Tty another one to see if it does the same or not.

With the TPS it should be .45v no throttle and should slowly rise to 4.5 - 5v at Wide Open Throttle. Make sure u are checking the correct pin on the TPS.

You say in ur post( 4 up) that its only whenits dead cold then once it starts it takes 7hrs. Can u explain this a bit more please

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

beemae30 Proficient

beemae30

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It does it when its stone cold. Then it'll take around 7hrs or so to get cold enough after its hot to start doing it again. And i'm pretty sure its the IAC as the spring isn't even holding it closed normally. I tested it with 12v and nothing ... at all so i'm thinking when its cold the AAC struggles to flow enough to stop it running rich on cold start.

And there is only 2 wires on the tps, or am i supposed to earth one of them to test it?

Also were is this hose supposed to go, Its at the rear of the block beside the intake manifold.

IMG_0503.jpg

Edited by beemae30
beemae30 Proficient

beemae30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Was bypassing which must have been enough to make an issue at cold start when it richens up. Through an oem worker on and straight away starts perfect. Better then when i first got it. Shitty gfb BOV's

  • 2 weeks later...
beemae30 Proficient

beemae30

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Looks like it but it is blocked with a bung. And the orientation of the hose puts it to the back of the fuel rail/inlet manifold as you can see by the bit of a hole above and left a bit to the nut.Also heater works fine :)

Edited by beemae30
  • 1 month later...
beemae30 Proficient

beemae30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Issue has reared its ugly head up. So i thought id replace the Cold air idle controller which didn't work when i supplied voltage to it. Fitted a known working one and still has the same issue. Any ideas?

  • 4 weeks later...
beemae30 Proficient

beemae30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha tell me about it. When the engine is stone cold when i start the engine the first 2-3 seconds it sputters and farts around 200-300 rpm. Occasionally it will stall out and need a re-start. If i jab the throttle after i've started it and while its sputtering it revs up then returns to a normal cold idle. Ive checked the tps and adjusted it to 0.45v idle and at max it only goes to 4v. Coolant sensor is 2k at cold and haven't had the chance to check it at operating temperature. Has a known working cold air valve and idle is set to 600rpm as per manual. Had it set to 900 but made no difference. Have cleaned the IAC and the AFM. Resoldered the AFM pins. Replaced the fuel filter and lines. Replaced all the vac hoses and boost hoses. Any ideas?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Cold start issue can be a few things.

Let me know if it blows much smoke meaning its too rich.

How low is the idle on cold start?

Does the problem go away with a bit of throttle? Maybe the aac valve is buggered.

Have u set the base ignition timing? Might be out

beemae30 Proficient

beemae30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No smoke,

When it starts it farts around 300 but once i have jabbed the throttle it goes to 1400-1500 at cold stand still.

And i've replaced the cold start valve ( one under the tb). I would think if it was the aac it would have an issue every start and struggle to idle? It idles sweet at 600 as per the manual and doesn't falter when a/c is switched on/off.

Yeah if i start it with the throttle a bit open it starts sweet.

And i haven't touched anything with timing and once the engine is warm it idles perfect, runs perfect. Only thing timing wise i can think of is that the cold compensation on the computer has changed.

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

your starting issues are fairly similar to my 32 gts-t which every cold start struggles to get up to idle. A short tap of the pedal usually gets it to idle perfectly so I have never bothered to track the fault down.

Did your random power cut out issues go away? I had exactly the same thing and it was definitely the AFM plug getting dry joints plus having an aftermarket BOV. I presume given you are getting TPS voltage you are using consult? if not give that a test and make sure it isn't throwing up any fault codes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Tomei gasket

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...