Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could very well be the issue. Tty another one to see if it does the same or not.

With the TPS it should be .45v no throttle and should slowly rise to 4.5 - 5v at Wide Open Throttle. Make sure u are checking the correct pin on the TPS.

You say in ur post( 4 up) that its only whenits dead cold then once it starts it takes 7hrs. Can u explain this a bit more please

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It does it when its stone cold. Then it'll take around 7hrs or so to get cold enough after its hot to start doing it again. And i'm pretty sure its the IAC as the spring isn't even holding it closed normally. I tested it with 12v and nothing ... at all so i'm thinking when its cold the AAC struggles to flow enough to stop it running rich on cold start.

And there is only 2 wires on the tps, or am i supposed to earth one of them to test it?

Also were is this hose supposed to go, Its at the rear of the block beside the intake manifold.

IMG_0503.jpg

Edited by beemae30

Was bypassing which must have been enough to make an issue at cold start when it richens up. Through an oem worker on and straight away starts perfect. Better then when i first got it. Shitty gfb BOV's

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like it but it is blocked with a bung. And the orientation of the hose puts it to the back of the fuel rail/inlet manifold as you can see by the bit of a hole above and left a bit to the nut.Also heater works fine :)

Edited by beemae30
  • 1 month later...

Issue has reared its ugly head up. So i thought id replace the Cold air idle controller which didn't work when i supplied voltage to it. Fitted a known working one and still has the same issue. Any ideas?

  • 4 weeks later...

Haha tell me about it. When the engine is stone cold when i start the engine the first 2-3 seconds it sputters and farts around 200-300 rpm. Occasionally it will stall out and need a re-start. If i jab the throttle after i've started it and while its sputtering it revs up then returns to a normal cold idle. Ive checked the tps and adjusted it to 0.45v idle and at max it only goes to 4v. Coolant sensor is 2k at cold and haven't had the chance to check it at operating temperature. Has a known working cold air valve and idle is set to 600rpm as per manual. Had it set to 900 but made no difference. Have cleaned the IAC and the AFM. Resoldered the AFM pins. Replaced the fuel filter and lines. Replaced all the vac hoses and boost hoses. Any ideas?

Cold start issue can be a few things.

Let me know if it blows much smoke meaning its too rich.

How low is the idle on cold start?

Does the problem go away with a bit of throttle? Maybe the aac valve is buggered.

Have u set the base ignition timing? Might be out

No smoke,

When it starts it farts around 300 but once i have jabbed the throttle it goes to 1400-1500 at cold stand still.

And i've replaced the cold start valve ( one under the tb). I would think if it was the aac it would have an issue every start and struggle to idle? It idles sweet at 600 as per the manual and doesn't falter when a/c is switched on/off.

Yeah if i start it with the throttle a bit open it starts sweet.

And i haven't touched anything with timing and once the engine is warm it idles perfect, runs perfect. Only thing timing wise i can think of is that the cold compensation on the computer has changed.

your starting issues are fairly similar to my 32 gts-t which every cold start struggles to get up to idle. A short tap of the pedal usually gets it to idle perfectly so I have never bothered to track the fault down.

Did your random power cut out issues go away? I had exactly the same thing and it was definitely the AFM plug getting dry joints plus having an aftermarket BOV. I presume given you are getting TPS voltage you are using consult? if not give that a test and make sure it isn't throwing up any fault codes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...