Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello all,

i got a bit of a problem, ive got the front door cards off to repair the front door rust. im not sure why but suddenly all the passenger door electric windows have stopped working. the drivers door works fine, but both rear doors and the passenger door dont work. does anyne know where the fuses or relays for the electric windows are?? i dont read japanese so i dunno which ones they are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363574-electric-window-problem/
Share on other sites

i had a problem just like that, i took the whole window switch thing out and took the top of it off, incl all the switches, then i used a screwdriver to move the switches while i plugged the board back in. then it started working again, this was a while ago, so im not too sure what exactly happened, this was around midnight after my switches stopped working and i was out in the dark trying to get my window back up

sounds like the window lock button on the drivers door is on? :whistling:

i am pretty slow, but i tried that too. i dunno how nissan wire up the electric windows, but when i used to mess around with holdens the drivers door was wired through its own relay and fuse cos of the auto up/down function. but the other 3 windows were wired through 1 relay and fuse. thats why i wanna find the fuses/relays so i can check if ive accidently shorted it out and blown a fuse.

Edited by Raysboostin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...