Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well looking for a new 'fun' car and R34 is on the list.

I hear a lot of rice this, rice that, but whatever....I like them, always have and with the right mods (internal and body) they look amazing.

So my current picks are...classic STI, Bug STI, or a R34.

I wanna hear why I should NOT get one, coz more than likely I will.

Plan was to buy a R34 GTR but will spend my money on a LONG holiday and buy a GTT instead.

Looking at some with a nice, simple bodykit, exhaust, low km's (clocks wound back much?), good paint, and clean...in general.

Will be driving it to work, weekends, etc..

Tell me why i shouldn't buy one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363922-talk-me-out-of-buying-a-r34/
Share on other sites

Mate- buy the 34! In all honesty they are a much better car than a wrx. I know you were wanting to be talked out of it, but you will have tons of fun in the 34, and being part of this site means you will get your parts cheap, and the advice from the experts on here is priceless. f**k the suby, get a mans car!

34 gt-t is a bit lack luster (stock), 'aparently' handles like a 'boat', people say the same about the 33 however i think this is all relative to the lightweight 32,

i'd highly recomend the gtr over any gt-t, shorten your holiday and get the GTR.

but other than that you really can't go wrong apart from fuel, but what is fuel to any car enthusiast haha

they're a fantastic car and i don't think you'll be hearing much negatives about them on a skyline forum...

and your right with the correct body kit they look amazing, but same goes for 33, 32, soarer's, supra's,

nothing can help the look of a WRX i respect the engine/handling but its shoebox pig nose ugly.

Buy R33, they looks much better than 34.

You can buy 33 GTR and have a long holidays so it's win-win.

As for kms, it's irrevelant, people have winded the km back on 34's as well.

Dont buy an STI, unless you like understeer and the sound of a constant misfire.

I vote for 33 GTR. Not to much more then a 34 but alot more potential. Nothing wrong with a GTT though, I had one and it was great. Just dont get red :thumbsup: buy a white or silver as the color should actaully last and not show scratches.

Best option would be a nice r32 GTR. You should be able to get a really mint one for the same price as a cheapish r33 GTR.

Edited by eightsixboy

I say you should try to import R34 GT-R, white or Silver ones can be had for lot cheaper than locally still...

but in all honestly, if you want to be talked out.. the reason's are, they are not getting any newer (GT-T or GTR)

Car's like Skyline V35 manual Coupe, make's in my opinion lot better car daily "as you mentioned driving to work!!" and there lot of fun with much more modern mod cons to boot

also since you other choice is a STI... try looking for a Evo 8 MR... i still have not got a kick in the pants response from my GT-R yet as i did test driving stock Evo 8 MR's... a lot of car for 32K

and now for the kicker Buy the GT-R (32,33,34) ... it's a cult !!

I saw the title of the thread, and I was like, pffft, easy

I was going to rant about how only tossers roll in 34s...but when you mentioned WRXs, damn son, get the 34....you'll see way more boobs.

Haha see way more boobs. I see many a skyline driver perving at said boobs to receive middle finger from owner of said boobs :)

But I've heard from more than a handful of girls HB rating 8 and above have nothing pleasant to say about the skyline car or driver of skyline cars.

As for WRX I don't think even a girl rated below 5 find the shape attractive. Pick the lesser of two uglies.

As for rarity. I can't walk through a carpark without passing a skyline every 3rd parked car...maybe every 4th. Heap more 34s than a couple years ago...maybe they are dirt cheap now?

But if you have coin for a beautiful 34 GTR than definitey get that as I enjoy seeing a sexy 34GTR on the road.

Reasons not to buy an RB powered car/Skyline

#1 - Broken oil pumps

#2 - Spun bearings due to said broken oil pump

#3 - Blown standard turbos

#4 - More people have them than Commodores these days

#5 - You said you want a body kit

Do you want more?

P.s you asked

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...