Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just wondering whether anyone ever dabbled in Draw-through carb turbo setups?

Its for a little project of mine.

its a Mitsubishi and we shall call him....Roger. :whistling:

Basically its a 1.6L OHC carb engine, and for a laugh id like to whack a little turbo on.

So if you have done a draw through setup before, What carb did you use, did you run an Intercooler and how did it go?

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/
Share on other sites

i was going to run a turbo on a carby motor in a gemini once from all the research i did no one seemed to run a cooler however i cant see why it cant be done. but depends on the boost level

http://turbogemini.com/Blow%20Through%20Carby%20Kit.htm

thats the kit i was looking at for the gemini i know its a different motor but it would be same setup

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808022
Share on other sites

i was going to run a turbo on a carby motor in a gemini once from all the research i did no one seemed to run a cooler however i cant see why it cant be done. but depends on the boost level

http://turbogemini.com/Blow%20Through%20Carby%20Kit.htm

thats the kit i was looking at for the gemini i know its a different motor but it would be same setup

Blow though setups are too hard to tune, and the boost pressure tends to blow out seals and the carbs.

hence going a draw though setup, where the carb works as normal (under vacuum)

Water to air still would have the same issue of having fuel pool inside the core.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808051
Share on other sites

Blow though setups are too hard to tune, and the boost pressure tends to blow out seals and the carbs.

hence going a draw though setup, where the carb works as normal (under vacuum)

Water to air still would have the same issue of having fuel pool inside the core.

but how? would the fuel only spill/seep back due to the design of the pipe(ie levels angles)

or does it somewhat splash back??

i'de be going superCharge but for benefit of this thread i would like to see the outcome of a Tcharged draw through carby(if it would work)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808053
Share on other sites

It probably wont go bang but fuel pooling in the core is a pain.

On a draw through set up the need for an IC is less because you have the fuel absorbing some of the heat as the air is compressed. So your intake temps arnt as hot.

If you run a blow through set up on low boost, most carbs will take it. You might see 30-50% more power on 5-7psi

Any more then that carbs will start to leak and ignition timing is a problem

Running around in old shitters with a turbo is fun tho

If its an old galant/lancer? Tho you might have more fun and easier time putting a 2.6 in it. from what I recall they bolt straight in- just make up a tailshaft

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808057
Share on other sites

Its a cordia.

So there is the factory turbo 4g62 motor, but I wanna do something a bit different and I also cbf swapping motors and looms and all that crap.

The supercharger idea sounds pretty good too.

i reckon having some sort of catch can would help.

i know its not a carby but with our cars some of em have had a catch can installed for the intake side to get all the water condesation away from the FMIC it mainly for cold starts. Idea??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808073
Share on other sites

Turbocharged carby motors confuzzle me... Like if you are using a draw-through setup, how does the turbo go having to compress fuel as well? Would the fuel not have a tendency to pool everywhere, regardless of if you have an intercooler or not? And is it not rather counterproductive having the carby creating a pressure drop and then the turbo trying to increase the pressure? And if you are using a blow-through setup (mute point in your case, but thought I'd bring it up anyway), wouldn't you be running your engine extremely lean at high boost? Considering carby's would apply the same amount of fuel to 0psi as they would to 10psi?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808156
Share on other sites

wouldn't the fuel going through the turbo and piping cool it a little bit any way?

Are you worried that a IC would cause the fuel to cool too much and drop out of the air? I've of heard that being a problem with (v8) cars with long runners and bonnet scoops cooling the runners which makes the fuel drop out of the air.

Mitsi Cordial with a carby and a turbo it's going to make huge power no matter what you do so I wouldn't bother with an IC. It's still going to be a hoot! :P Just get a top mount turbo that plugs almost straight into the TB :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808161
Share on other sites

Turbocharged carby motors confuzzle me... Like if you are using a draw-through setup, how does the turbo go having to compress fuel as well? Would the fuel not have a tendency to pool everywhere, regardless of if you have an intercooler or not? And is it not rather counterproductive having the carby creating a pressure drop and then the turbo trying to increase the pressure? And if you are using a blow-through setup (mute point in your case, but thought I'd bring it up anyway), wouldn't you be running your engine extremely lean at high boost? Considering carby's would apply the same amount of fuel to 0psi as they would to 10psi?

You use a rising rate pressure reg to keep the fuel pressure up to the carb.

The turbos dont mind the fuel, same as a WMI setup really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808163
Share on other sites

if your doing a cordia get the 4g4 engine , its a 2.4 and it comes out in fwd configuration.

will certainly help wake up the cordia, actually it will more than likely tear out the front of the car with the weakened cordia from all the rust they were famous for

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363971-hey-old-guys/#findComment-5808166
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...