Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just trying to work out what the rear housing is on my turbo as i want to replace it with something bigger its only a .63 its a hybrid turbo so these are the numbers on the rear housing

Garrett

m1 63

01404

13016

9526-937

any help would be great if not can i just cork out the wheel size and trim and order a housing to suit??

And you put it on a 3L?

maxx boost @ idle amitright?

haha yea thats why i want to get a bigger rear housing made 450rwkw on an sr20

pretty sure it is a 65mm wheel with a 76 trim wheres the best place to get rear housing to your specs?

haha yea thats why i want to get a bigger rear housing made 450rwkw on an sr20

pretty sure it is a 65mm wheel with a 76 trim wheres the best place to get rear housing to your specs?

Unless it's a Garrett GT series, HKS etcc... you'd find it VERY hard to find replacement housings for such a turbo.

I'm curious as to where you think you'd be able to "order" a rear housing? They're not the sort of thing like springs or pistons, where you can give specs and they'll machine one up for ya...

If it made that much power there's no chance it's a factory turbo, odds are it's one of these t04e knock offs: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/BB/T3T4R_757197_4.htm

There's heaps floating around on the net that copy this design, very popular for no name "eBay" turbos. Search for "T3/T4 turbo" on eBay, see for yourself.

p.s. what's a hybrid turbo?

Unless it's a Garrett GT series, HKS etcc... you'd find it VERY hard to find replacement housings for such a turbo.

I'm curious as to where you think you'd be able to "order" a rear housing? They're not the sort of thing like springs or pistons, where you can give specs and they'll machine one up for ya...

If it made that much power there's no chance it's a factory turbo, odds are it's one of these t04e knock offs: http://www.turbobyga...4R_757197_4.htm

There's heaps floating around on the net that copy this design, very popular for no name "eBay" turbos. Search for "T3/T4 turbo" on eBay, see for yourself.

p.s. what's a hybrid turbo?

plenty of places u can order rear housing for hybrid just means its a bit of everything really it was custom made for the bloke i got it off from a bloke down here its got all sorts off different brand stuff in it i just want to get a bigger rear housing for it

It appears to be some sort of older tech garrett unit, I found some yanks talking about one of the PNs on a US based forum yet stating different trim sizes to your own.

Regardless, if it did 450rwkw on an SR20 theres no way its going to be choking the 3L, simple as that really.

If you want a guaranteed result, your better off buying something else that suits the manifold you already have. If you are yet to make a manifold and were going to make one to suit this turbo, give up while your ahead and start over. The world is your oyster.

As stated, the AR is almost a pointless number to gauge without knowing the turbos specs. To the point that, more 35Rs run .63 rears without issue than 30Rs do and they are actually the same housing on both.

It appears to be some sort of older tech garrett unit, I found some yanks talking about one of the PNs on a US based forum yet stating different trim sizes to your own.

Regardless, if it did 450rwkw on an SR20 theres no way its going to be choking the 3L, simple as that really.

If you want a guaranteed result, your better off buying something else that suits the manifold you already have. If you are yet to make a manifold and were going to make one to suit this turbo, give up while your ahead and start over. The world is your oyster.

As stated, the AR is almost a pointless number to gauge without knowing the turbos specs. To the point that, more 35Rs run .63 rears without issue than 30Rs do and they are actually the same housing on both.

cheers for that mate maybe i will see how it goes yea i alreay have a hks manifold which is t4 flanged so will just got a t3/t4 adaptor or something sorted. can always change later if i want to i guess

Do it once do it right.

The HKS manifold is a good thing but if its a low mount rather than a high mount you will not have space to run an adapter. Its hard to fit a turbo under the low mount manifolds as it is. If it is a highmount of some sort again you may be hitting the bonnet with an adaptor in place... BUT, a highmount is likely to be stainless which you could just chop off the flange and put the flange you want on it.

You need to decide two things, how much power and how much money. 300rwkw you will be wasting your time with a T4 flanged turbo, 400+rwkw you will be spending 20grand in total to get there.

If its 300 you want, sell the HKS manifold and get something suitable.. Probably a stock manifold to be honest. If you DO want over 400rwkw, hang onto what youve got and get the right turbo. If its a twin scroll manifold then pick up a T04Z or 3788R. Recent results for the 3788R have been very impressive.

Lets just say your an odd ball and want 350rwkw, you can actually get a T4 35R from GCG for $1450, I would say that is a good option.. However a member has recently found a twin scroll 3788R to be about as responsive as single scroll 35R (on a very built *read expensive* setup).. Again it all comes down to BUDGET.

GL anyway, this forum has more info than you will ever need... If the info is on another forum another member will find it and put it here :P

gt35 turbine exducer is only 2.5.

Newer GT garrets have the flare up to 3 inch on the outlet but the older T series turbos just had a straight outlet off the turbine, the flare had to be made in the first part of the dump.

GT35 isnt a 450rwkw turbo though, espesially not on an SR20.

Which is what we're getting at.

Yea that's what I thought but I saw the car it was on and that's what it made. And yea aiming for 400kw its a high Mount manifold will just try an adaptor n see how I go hope it doesn't hit on the bonnet with the 26/30 it's gonna be close I reckon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...