Jump to content
SAU Community

Trying To Work Out Rear Housing I Have

t04z

By t04z,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

t04z Collaborator

t04z

Posted
Posted

just trying to work out what the rear housing is on my turbo as i want to replace it with something bigger its only a .63 its a hybrid turbo so these are the numbers on the rear housing

Garrett

m1 63

01404

13016

9526-937

any help would be great if not can i just cork out the wheel size and trim and order a housing to suit??

t04z Collaborator

t04z

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And you put it on a 3L?

maxx boost @ idle amitright?

haha yea thats why i want to get a bigger rear housing made 450rwkw on an sr20

pretty sure it is a 65mm wheel with a 76 trim wheres the best place to get rear housing to your specs?

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

haha yea thats why i want to get a bigger rear housing made 450rwkw on an sr20

pretty sure it is a 65mm wheel with a 76 trim wheres the best place to get rear housing to your specs?

Unless it's a Garrett GT series, HKS etcc... you'd find it VERY hard to find replacement housings for such a turbo.

I'm curious as to where you think you'd be able to "order" a rear housing? They're not the sort of thing like springs or pistons, where you can give specs and they'll machine one up for ya...

If it made that much power there's no chance it's a factory turbo, odds are it's one of these t04e knock offs: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/BB/T3T4R_757197_4.htm

There's heaps floating around on the net that copy this design, very popular for no name "eBay" turbos. Search for "T3/T4 turbo" on eBay, see for yourself.

p.s. what's a hybrid turbo?

t04z Collaborator

t04z

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Unless it's a Garrett GT series, HKS etcc... you'd find it VERY hard to find replacement housings for such a turbo.

I'm curious as to where you think you'd be able to "order" a rear housing? They're not the sort of thing like springs or pistons, where you can give specs and they'll machine one up for ya...

If it made that much power there's no chance it's a factory turbo, odds are it's one of these t04e knock offs: http://www.turbobyga...4R_757197_4.htm

There's heaps floating around on the net that copy this design, very popular for no name "eBay" turbos. Search for "T3/T4 turbo" on eBay, see for yourself.

p.s. what's a hybrid turbo?

plenty of places u can order rear housing for hybrid just means its a bit of everything really it was custom made for the bloke i got it off from a bloke down here its got all sorts off different brand stuff in it i just want to get a bigger rear housing for it

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

It appears to be some sort of older tech garrett unit, I found some yanks talking about one of the PNs on a US based forum yet stating different trim sizes to your own.

Regardless, if it did 450rwkw on an SR20 theres no way its going to be choking the 3L, simple as that really.

If you want a guaranteed result, your better off buying something else that suits the manifold you already have. If you are yet to make a manifold and were going to make one to suit this turbo, give up while your ahead and start over. The world is your oyster.

As stated, the AR is almost a pointless number to gauge without knowing the turbos specs. To the point that, more 35Rs run .63 rears without issue than 30Rs do and they are actually the same housing on both.

t04z Collaborator

t04z

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It appears to be some sort of older tech garrett unit, I found some yanks talking about one of the PNs on a US based forum yet stating different trim sizes to your own.

Regardless, if it did 450rwkw on an SR20 theres no way its going to be choking the 3L, simple as that really.

If you want a guaranteed result, your better off buying something else that suits the manifold you already have. If you are yet to make a manifold and were going to make one to suit this turbo, give up while your ahead and start over. The world is your oyster.

As stated, the AR is almost a pointless number to gauge without knowing the turbos specs. To the point that, more 35Rs run .63 rears without issue than 30Rs do and they are actually the same housing on both.

cheers for that mate maybe i will see how it goes yea i alreay have a hks manifold which is t4 flanged so will just got a t3/t4 adaptor or something sorted. can always change later if i want to i guess

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Do it once do it right.

The HKS manifold is a good thing but if its a low mount rather than a high mount you will not have space to run an adapter. Its hard to fit a turbo under the low mount manifolds as it is. If it is a highmount of some sort again you may be hitting the bonnet with an adaptor in place... BUT, a highmount is likely to be stainless which you could just chop off the flange and put the flange you want on it.

You need to decide two things, how much power and how much money. 300rwkw you will be wasting your time with a T4 flanged turbo, 400+rwkw you will be spending 20grand in total to get there.

If its 300 you want, sell the HKS manifold and get something suitable.. Probably a stock manifold to be honest. If you DO want over 400rwkw, hang onto what youve got and get the right turbo. If its a twin scroll manifold then pick up a T04Z or 3788R. Recent results for the 3788R have been very impressive.

Lets just say your an odd ball and want 350rwkw, you can actually get a T4 35R from GCG for $1450, I would say that is a good option.. However a member has recently found a twin scroll 3788R to be about as responsive as single scroll 35R (on a very built *read expensive* setup).. Again it all comes down to BUDGET.

GL anyway, this forum has more info than you will ever need... If the info is on another forum another member will find it and put it here :P

badhairdave Proficient

badhairdave

Posted
Posted

gt35 turbine exducer is only 2.5.

Newer GT garrets have the flare up to 3 inch on the outlet but the older T series turbos just had a straight outlet off the turbine, the flare had to be made in the first part of the dump.

t04z Collaborator

t04z

Posted
  • Author
Posted

GT35 isnt a 450rwkw turbo though, espesially not on an SR20.

Which is what we're getting at.

Yea that's what I thought but I saw the car it was on and that's what it made. And yea aiming for 400kw its a high Mount manifold will just try an adaptor n see how I go hope it doesn't hit on the bonnet with the 26/30 it's gonna be close I reckon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...