Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 205
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok found a good deal, I give mtq my compressor cover and my wastegae actuator and they give me a bolt on gt3076 with lines for $2350.

I think you will be disappointed with a bitza turbo that won't perform like a GT3076 in its native Garrett housings.

If I'm wasting money I'm not settling for less then 400hp. I have been told to buy a t66 but that may be too big.

I dont think a highflow will be big enough. Has anyone actually been happy with a highflow?

Edited by lilcrash

This topic has been covered a lot in forced induction.

A good hiflow is a reasonable option up to around 250rwkw +/- 10kw.

If you want more then the GT3076 is the best bet, making sure you get the portshrouded comp cover and 0.82 turbine housing. (there a few different versions so take your time checking what you are getting).

I can get a gt3076 for $1275 delivered but then I still need to add all the extras to make it work, as per the gcg kit for $2950. Gcg do a line kit for $375, and I can probably just buy a Garret exhaust flange and modify my dump. But what size inlet is on them? Will the stock intake pipe fit? And is the 20mm spacer necessary? I just see it as if I can get a bolt on 3076 equivalent for $2350 with lines that's not too bad. Is there really that much difference in the compressor covers?

If I'm wasting money I'm not settling for less then 400hp. I have been told to buy a t66 but that may be too big.

I dont think a highflow will be big enough. Has anyone actually been happy with a highflow?

I was happy with my highflow. It made 245awkw which was quite fast and with a better fmic and nistune would probab;y have made about 260- 270 which is really quite fast (and acheivable cheaper with hyper highflow than GCG). Then I blew my engine and decided to get an RB30 hence the GT3540 although people have had very good results with a GT3076 on their RB30.

I would suggest you get the cheaper highflow or if you really want 300kw get the GT3076.

Some one has pointed out that a gt3076 will be rather laggy. Is it too big for a 2.5litre?

Why did your engine fail? Am I dreaming thinking I can push 16/18psi into a stock rb25

Edited by lilcrash

I had a HKS GT-RS (240-250rwkw) and have now swapped it for a HKS2835ProS (260-270rwkw). The smaller turbo (and they are very similar) is the pick for cut and thrust city driving and made plenty of power. The ProS is nicer on longer trips and has a very progressive delivery just not quite as responsive down low.

I personally wouldn't go too much larger than these two on the stagea in manual form.

I have a larger framed turbo on the R33 but it isn't hampered by another 400kg.

I've narrowed it down to a few options now but here is the 3 options I'm having trouble choosing between. Hypergear ar43 - $1250 + gst and postage, hypergear hiflow - $800 + gst and postage, mtq hiflow/gt3076 hybrid $2350 bolt on.

All should make similar power just not sure what will suit my purposes

My engine failed after hammering on the track. Its not the amount of boost that kills them I think its a combination of oil delivery problems and tune.

You will find 250 - 270 awkw plenty fast enough on the road. Make sure you use a quality synthetic such as Motul and go to some trouble to find a really good tuner.

After looking through the rb25 dyno thread. The hypergear ar43 .83 and the gt3076 basically make the same power, and with a $1000 difference in cost I think the hypergear option is looking good. I always run penrite oil in my cars.

sorry to troll but i hate penrite oils, alot of people i know have suffered from bad oil sludging using this oil and had bad oil supply issues (and spun bearings) because of it . if its your daily and you give it a hard time some of the time maybe use castrol edge sport (unless you wana spend more coin and get motul or royal purple).

yeh just my 2 cents, run a flush and change oils.

if you wana stick with penrite then buy repco branded oil because its just rebranded penrite (read the small print) but cheaper.

After looking through the rb25 dyno thread. The hypergear ar43 .83 and the gt3076 basically make the same power, and with a $1000 difference in cost I think the hypergear option is looking good. I always run penrite oil in my cars.

Just keep in mind the extra weight of the car. I think you should target something that will make 250rwkw without wringing the neck of it (which will still have another 20-25kw by leaning on it). Any less is hardly worth it, much more isn't that usable IMO on the road.

Delivery of power and average power are more important....peak power isn't everything.

Just got the reply from hypergear. Atr43 s3 .82. $1480 delivered. The test car made 303 on 20psi. I'm planning on running 14 around town and 18 at the drags. anyone against this? Yer after reading I think 250 comfortably will be fine.

sorry to troll but i hate penrite oils, alot of people i know have suffered from bad oil sludging using this oil and had bad oil supply issues (and spun bearings) because of it . if its your daily and you give it a hard time some of the time maybe use castrol edge sport (unless you wana spend more coin and get motul or royal purple).

yeh just my 2 cents, run a flush and change oils.

if you wana stick with penrite then buy repco branded oil because its just rebranded penrite (read the small print) but cheaper.

Just for the record my engine failed with castrol 10-60 in it - not that that was necessarily part of the problem but for peace of mind will now be using Motul 300v instead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...