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The Wasteland 2011 Edition

Nightcrawler

By Nightcrawler,
in South Australia

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Jap_star Mentor

Jap_star

Posted
Posted

Will attempt to make the scanner work tomorrow. Spoiling by 3. Full boost smack on 4. Change to the big can actuator should knock off 300ish rpm. What dyno is your 420nm at? Mine made 428nm stock turbo.

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Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

Will attempt to make the scanner work tomorrow. Spoiling by 3. Full boost smack on 4. Change to the big can actuator should knock off 300ish rpm. What dyno is your 420nm at? Mine made 428nm stock turbo.

boostworx's dyno dynamics. i did 250kw at the last willall dyno day with a reported 670nm torque at the engine which i was told would be 400 odd

my car is very much stock as I have to keep it legal for the sake of it being my daily. i dont hold any delusions of being a wicked track driver/drifter, I just like the way it runs esp when i do a nice spirited hills run. thats the main reason im after response really... cant care about track times or dyno figures at the end of the day. at most id be using the car for advanced driver training to make me suck less. cause lets face it, nobodys perfect >:D

-D

Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

i dunno eh, these buggers spool from 3k and im getting 275kw/420nm torque at the wheels.... some fine tuning to the boost controller remains as well as cam gears but eh, its more than enough for a non-rambo daily driver like me

I'd like to compare his powercurve to mine. Single vs double with only 100cc engine capacity difference. Would be interesting...

-D

Here...have a look at one of mine :P, from almost 2 years ago :unsure:

32160820078_large.jpg

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

It wouldn't be easy. But I think Full Race have manifolds to suit.

legality is put before performance in my case (sadly)

the 2860 series are certified as after factory replacements and can get thru regency with ease

thats the other bonus - what makes those other turbos more special than the 2860s or the hks equivalents?

-D

Edit - this is my dyno sheet from last dyno day. Since then the head gasket has been replaced and all the associated plumbing (along with a good $1600 of troubleshooting at boostworx after the engine was reassembled - not just engine mind, entire fuel system and 4wd... long story, dont ask...)

dynorun040910.jpg

scandyflick Grand Master

scandyflick

Posted
Posted

what makes those other turbos more special than the 2860s or the hks equivalents?

With the 6258 I'm looking at 2871R power with response on par if not better than a 2860RS.

Throw in some cool shit like investment cast stainless exh housing, Ti alloy turbine, billet comp wheel, built in boost control and BOV, dual ceramic ball bearings in steel cages, huuuuuge internal waste gate, and a couple other rather cool things for not much more than what a 2871 retails for, and it starts looking like a winner.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

With the 6258 I'm looking at 2871R power with response on par if not better than a 2860RS.

Throw in some cool shit like investment cast stainless exh housing, Ti alloy turbine, billet comp wheel, built in boost control and BOV, dual ceramic ball bearings in steel cages, huuuuuge internal waste gate, and a couple other rather cool things for not much more than what a 2871 retails for, and it starts looking like a winner.

yeah i bet that all costs a bogload. and some daisy blue will defect me for it

i reckon the 2860-5 is the best option for my situation. 90% street driving (hence response wanted, as well as legality being a priority) 10% driver training at lala (330kw from the -5 is supposedly easy to get, that is >plenty< for me)

-D

Edit - And to put in proportion, 330kw is what the last Ferrari Testarossa put out - I was a child of the 80s and base my power figures upon said cars :)

scandyflick Grand Master

scandyflick

Posted
Posted

I guess in a TT application prices would start getting a bit silly. $3400 for turbos. Which isn't too bad, but then you'd need manifolds...

For me though, it's great. It fits on the standard mani and clears p/s, a/c, and engine mount bracket. Exhaust will be difficult because of how close the exhaust v-band sits to the engine, but that's a problem for someone else. :)

Mostly street and hills, occasional track. Response will likely be better than I had before. As for Regency... Meh. I have a daily. And it's just one more part I'll have to swap out.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

I guess in a TT application prices would start getting a bit silly. $3400 for turbos. Which isn't too bad, but then you'd need manifolds...

For me though, it's great. It fits on the standard mani and clears p/s, a/c, and engine mount bracket. Exhaust will be difficult because of how close the exhaust v-band sits to the engine, but that's a problem for someone else. :)

Mostly street and hills, occasional track. Response will likely be better than I had before. As for Regency... Meh. I have a daily. And it's just one more part I'll have to swap out.

And that is the dilemma. I've seen 2860-5 kits for $2k atm including the 14psi actuator, which means I can sell my N1's and actuator for around $1500 (which is what I paid and considering the car has been offroad for 6 months since I fit those n1's, they're barely run in.) The exhaust housings and sleeve bearings of n1's arent tops for performance, but they are legal. Just need to find someone who'd be happy with the close-to-300kw setup (i reckon they could get to 290kw with proper split dumps and front pipes), As it is, theyre doing 275 on a 21 yr old engine. 2860 -5 should be fine, unless the -7's are responsive enough. I just dont know.

-D

scandyflick Grand Master

scandyflick

Posted
Posted

Yeah... Price difference is due to the fact that the BW's are a clean sheet design that has only hit the market in the last few months, 2860's are 20+ year old architecture. Once they become a little more widespread, the price will drop significantly I reckon.

As it is, I think I'm going to be the first SR in Australia running one.

Is the $2k price brand new? If so, that's pretty f**king reasonable.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

Yeah... Price difference is due to the fact that the BW's are a clean sheet design that has only hit the market in the last few months, 2860's are 20+ year old architecture. Once they become a little more widespread, the price will drop significantly I reckon.

As it is, I think I'm going to be the first SR in Australia running one.

Is the $2k price brand new? If so, that's pretty f**king reasonable.

Yep. $2500 from most places but I know a joint that does em for $2k on our current exchange rate, including 14 psi actuators. I'm still running the stock gtr actuators and a profec B

If they can get an engineers cert that theyre a legal swap in replacement, I'd hit it within a heartbeat. But I cant afford nonsense with the authorities so Ill aim to get the 2860-5s in 2 yrs unless those ones u quoted can be accepted

-D

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

I paid $1250 deliverd for my 2860-5's with actuators from the US :) they are laggy as hell, full boost at about 5000rpm.

are u serious? tt application? I thought -5's were less laggy than the -7s ?

Maybe I should stick with the n1's.. they are so goddam awesome to plant the throttle and just hold on for dear life

-D

Matty Sherlock Experienced

Matty Sherlock

Posted
Posted

When are you on full boost with the n1s dohmar? I need to decide what will replace my stock ceramics and I'm happy with my power level (250) but I want response. I'm spooling 15psi at 4500rpm upwards dependent on weather.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

When are you on full boost with the n1s dohmar? I need to decide what will replace my stock ceramics and I'm happy with my power level (250) but I want response. I'm spooling 15psi at 4500rpm upwards dependent on weather.

around 4k on full boost - it hits max boost very very quickly. if you're happy with ur current setup then u should buy my n1's when i upgrade heh

-D

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a plan. Just have to n1 spec everything else now. Might keep my aircon though

definately. if you're running a streeter then maybe u should cross notes with me, cause its been my MO for the last 4 yrs since I bought the R and somethings have worked well and others havent. max performance but only when legal is the MO. putting braking and handling before any engine mods mind you,

I've done a load of things that I've had planned for yrs. It comes down to practicality and the amount of $ u got to get rid of.

-D

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