Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Accommodation being booked tonight, in Munich for Oktoberfest :cheers:

Need to start drinking beer again (pitty i have been working so hard to get rid of this beer belly) so look out schutzenfest!

which is in 1 months today, almost time to start arranging the yearly SAU "responsible drinking" day - due to legal requirements around my liquor license i must 'preach' responsible drinking blah blah blah

Fwiw been doing some fuel consumption 'testing' before the e85 swap. over the last two weeks to and from work (stop start) the results have almost been identical. this weeks results with filling up today were i used 43L of petrol and did 397 Ks. A total of 10.8L per 100kms

Didnt think this was too bad considering the motors not quite stock. By comparison off the governments site a current SS Commodore uses 17.3L per 100, 370Z uses 15.2, Renault Megane Sport 250 uses 11.8

Interesting stuff

http://www.greenvehicleguide.gov.au/GVGPublicUI/home.aspx

Fwiw been doing some fuel consumption 'testing' before the e85 swap. over the last two weeks to and from work (stop start) the results have almost been identical. this weeks results with filling up today were i used 43L of petrol and did 397 Ks. A total of 10.8L per 100kms

Didnt think this was too bad considering the motors not quite stock. By comparison off the governments site a current SS Commodore uses 17.3L per 100, 370Z uses 15.2,

Is that with or without an aftermarket ECU right now? Cos that sure seems pretty economical to me. I'm currently getting like 15.5L/100km (320km or so on 50L) on an untuned R34 with 3" exhaust, 10psi - just regular driving around town (It'll get 600km+ on 50L on the highway though). Planning to get it down to get retuned early next year for economy if nothing else. If I could possibly achieve that sort of economy around town I'd be stoked.

Yup, I understand why my fuel economy is poor - stock ECU - and it'll compensate with extra fuel. Which is why I ask if Jap_Star has a stock ECU. I'm guessing not, which gives me hope that I might achieve good fuel economy with a tune :D

If you can't get a Nistune for your ECU Jenna (some R34s you can, some you can't depending on what type/brand ECU is in it), then go an SAFCII. Had one fitted to my R34 with good results, and now have it on my V35. On the 35 the tune made an extra 8rwkw and flattened torque and all curves rather nicely. Obviously having a turbo and running rich you would see much bigger gains.

If you can't get a Nistune for your ECU Jenna (some R34s you can, some you can't depending on what type/brand ECU is in it), then go an SAFCII. Had one fitted to my R34 with good results, and now have it on my V35. On the 35 the tune made an extra 8rwkw and flattened torque and all curves rather nicely. Obviously having a turbo and running rich you would see much bigger gains.

Yup, I already have a nistune fitted, unfortunately it's just still on the factory maps - I haven't had the $$$ to get it tuned yet.

Plan is to take it to Boostworx or Willall in the new year. Given the 182rwkw I hit on 7psi, with the 10psi actuator now in - I'm hoping with a retune power should jump to low 200rwkw, with better economy. That's the aim/hope anyway. :)

My '34 is finally getting where I want it - few major things left on my list are fitting the nismo 480cc injectors, fitting the HEL oil cooler w/thermostat (sitting in garage), and highflow the turbo (probably MTQ).

Thanks for throwing ideas and help out guys :)

mine went to hell once I fitted the new xforce cat. that little restriction from compliance cat to a full 3" or more from front to back , sent the fuel mapping wonky even after resetting the ECU,need to get my nistune ECU slapped in and tuned. and my actuator installed,

on a side note who down south can work on skylines and you trust , besides nissan and hp in a box, or grand nissan wreckers ? need my new clutch fitted and look at what kind of crap the other mechanic did wrong when they did the timing belt. before it eats it. belt is a gates kevlar racing belt.

does anyone have a Gates/HKS. or non factory belt on factory timing gears ? mine is making a shocking noise like its rubbing randomly , the car does have carbon fiber cover if anyone has issues with the cas not sitting flat because of the cover. the damn drive belts started sqealing this morning too, bunch of farking trained monekys cant even do the belts and hoses without drama

who can be recommended for nistune, dyno tune on the GTT down south preffered? I was told garage 7 ?

Edited by Carbon 34

Jenna my mate spoke with boostworx the other day and Shaun has a 5k old turbo sitting there he only want $1200 for it you should hit him up

Really wanna stick with an R34/OP6 high-flow if I can - my power goals are only 240-250rwkw. More chance to get through Regency without me needing to change back to a factory turbo .. Do you know what sort of turbo Shaun has?

Fwiw been doing some fuel consumption 'testing' before the e85 swap. over the last two weeks to and from work (stop start) the results have almost been identical. this weeks results with filling up today were i used 43L of petrol and did 397 Ks. A total of 10.8L per 100kms

That's about what I get in my dead stock R33 GTS-T. In regular commuting traffic my fuel economy hovers around 10.5 to 11 ltr/100km, on whatever the pump 98 RON is I get. And that's with a mighty 128rwkW ;D

Yup, I already have a nistune fitted, unfortunately it's just still on the factory maps - I haven't had the $$$ to get it tuned yet.

Plan is to take it to Boostworx or Willall in the new year.

WILLAL

its a no brainer really, plus club discount

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...