Jump to content
SAU Community

Look! It's another Canuk! I've got LOTS of questions on the R32 GTST + RB20DET

Daemos
 Share

Recommended Posts

Daemos Rookie

Daemos

Posted
Posted

Hello from Canada :)

It looks like quite a bit of Canadians are invading as R32 Skylines are getting nearer and nearer for import.

So I was all over the GTR, but sticking to a tight budget isn't what I do best, and the nice quality GTRs are going up in price, so I've looked at other look nice, all year cars :D

Now it's come down to two cars (if I import) a 1989-1990 180SX or a 1989-1990 R32 GTST.

Now I already know what the 180SX can do in terms of power with the CA18 and what it will take to obtain my goals.

Now the GTST and the 180SX weigh almost the same. My goals basically is a low 12 second drag car, a street car, and an auto x car (all three MUST be there) now for the 180SX this required a Disco Potato Turbo (don't know if you've even heard of this turbo, it's like a crazy Hybrid T28) which with proper tuning, and parts, can make 330-350wrhp, and it has a fast spool up, which means low lag :)

Now I need to learn a few things about the GTST

For chassis/suspension which parts are interchangable from GTR aftermarket parts? But since it does share the chassis with the GTR (well kinda) it probally doesn't suffer from really limited suspension travel like the 180SX, and comming stock with nicer brakes is cool too.

On stock internals (cept cams) and with proper tuning (on 91 octane canadian gas) how much power should I expect to make with new piping, turbo fmic etc?

And what's the weight ratio on the GTST? Thanks ;)

PS is the Type M worth to get, HICAS good/bad? What else does the Type M include?

Daemos Rookie

Daemos

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Welcome to the wonderful world of Canada's 15 year import law, unlike you Aussie's we don't have any exceptions.

15 years to the month and year. I don't plan to get it til next year, but I'd like to set a goal up soon :)

So no SR20DET powered 180SX for me :(

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

Have heard of the Disco potato. It's listed in the Garret catalog (GT28RS).

1. Get the Skyline.

2. Get the GTS-t Type-M with the mods already on it out of Japan (at LEAST exhaust and maybe FMIC)

3. HICAS is ok, you might find it makes the handling slightly unpredictable at autocross.

4. 91 Octane canadian is about 95 or so octane in Australia? What are your options for fuel? Most of us here run 98 octane all the time. 100 in Japan.

Keep in mind that a 15 year old car like the GTS-t is going to be kinda rough coming from Japan and budget for that. Parts are going to be costly for you as well. At least with the 180sx there was the 240sx model locally and the SR20/CA18 scene is pretty well established over there.

But the skyline will give you the unique factor.

Daemos Rookie

Daemos

Posted
  • Author
Posted

91 octane is probally the best gas we can get, unless if we got ethenol blend (94 octane) here in my city (but only two stations in the city have it) Although the city isn't big (700,000 ppl)

I'm not too sure what the gas system is in Australia...so I can't really compare.

Yea we got the 240SX here, but no one in my city has a SR20DET or a CA18DET, however we did just get our FIRST KA24E-T (that's right the old school SOHC KA) it was finished sometime this week.

However we have had a R33 RB26DETT powered 240Z since last summer :( It's making about about 350-400 hp, I can't remember exactly (those are crank numbers)

So in fact, our city acctually has more experience with RB26DETTs than we do with CAs or SRs

I agree the skyline will give me the unique factor and it may for handling edge out the 180, due to a more sofisiticated suspension, and braking system. But in terms of reliablity...that might be hard...which is why I'm here asking questions :)

At least with the 180SX, if anything breaks parts are easy to find, and the CA18DET is similar enough to the CA18DE found in the 88 pulsar that people can work on it. Plus the fact I can find a block heater is good.

A Block Heater FYI is an electrical element that heats up the block keeping the fluids above melting temperature for the winter (you plug it into a electrical outlet) And with -50C winters, we need it :D Although our summers get to like +40C

But yea, again letting you know, this car will be driven in snow, rain, hail, soot, and in the heat :)

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

howdy canuck! I was just in Canada in Feb, Vancouver and Whistler. I must say that Australia has flashier cars and Canada has a lot more practical cars, SUV"s etc. Everything has 4WD! BMW 3 series, everything seemed to have a 4WD variant. But being over there in Winter i can see why the big 4WD's are so popular, u bloody need them.

I didn't see that many 240sx's in Vancouver. A few here and there. prob a more S14's then 13's.

anyways, great country u've got there. And good luck with the car. Oh, and get a R32 GTR, u know u want to! :P

Daemos Rookie

Daemos

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Us Canadians are taking over the place :(

They shouldn't fear the Americans, we're the ones that are invading :)

But I still need to know more about the RB20, Weight Reduction on the HCR32 (which there are probally lots of places) hopefully HICAS weighs like 30Kilos or something, suspension etc :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...