Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mate now your coming across like a real tool, seriously. At first you stated you were going to 'push' these bad boys to high 300's. Totally wrong turbo for that. Then then said 'fine 500 it is'. That there is two totally different engines, setups, purposes and budgets. You have been asked three if not four times what the A) use for the car is, B) redline, C) what sort of curve you want, D) if you want low mount or highmount. You have said you bought the low mount 2835's because of defect's, which is great. Alot of us are in the same boat espeically those Mexicans in Vic.

You have also said that the engine was built to take 'about 400rwkw'. If thats the case why are so keen on using two different setups which will go 500 +. Its like buying a 600 HP Kenworth prime mover when only needing to tow a box trailer!

Most of the guys offering opinion's in this thread have built GTR's in their garages right now, get driven and have take a particular route BECAUSE IT WORKS! I, myself am going from RS's to -5's on a stroker motor becasue its a laggy POS. I couldn't imagine one size bigger turbo's on a engine thats 200 LESS CC

James.

There are guys who have posted in this thread, with builds that are WAY more intensive then what you say you have.

And your taking the advice over Facebook slappers and a kid that can't even drive ?

Are you actually coming here for advice and help because so far all you have done is piss on everyones helpful suggestions while changing your mind about what you actually want from post to post.

there is a dude who was a mechanic for a big GT-R workshop and I'm pretty sure we all know the one he's talking about who has advised you, why don't you take this on board if the word of a mechanic is your gospel....

Let me put it this way:

No one is giving you arrogant replies, it simply that we are not telling you what you want to hear, by all means go ahead, spend the money and be happy with what you've built but from what you have said, it won't be what you end up with.

Everything everyone has said has been to help you, and previous to this page that's what happened.

You went from worrying about being defected to wanting a car that stalls at idle, using insane amounts of fuel and is laggy, where is the segue ?

A car like that will drive like an absolute piece of shit, do you have the money for the drive-train modifications required also ?

It will not run a good time at the track, it will not run a good time at the circuit, it will not drift well, it will not even be fast on the streets, seriously you will be destroyed by 90% of stuff on the road at the lights unless you pony up huge money to get this setup working properly, which your not.

I also doubt your bottom end is engineered to take the consistent 9000RPM + required to make this sort of power from a 2.6 Litre engine, given that you required only 400kw atw from the builder.

The main problem here is your attitude towards advice is pretty stupid, people are just trying to help you, all you have to do is smile and nod and take what someone has said under advisement.

You don't have to DO anything you don't want to, but don't get all angsty when someone bursts your bubble with the cold steel of reality..

''Iv worked here'' or ''iv built one before'' or my best friends ex wifes 96th cousin who works for Nissan'' over it and everyone's piece of input.. jusp cause you have been there and see it or experienced is doesn't give you the excuse to be total arrogant fu ck wits about things. There are some of use who put possibly everything into owning and modifying one...

Have you ever thought that given i worked for a workshop that i may know more than one way to build an RB26?

Customers come in all the time with different goals and it was our job to build them a car that suited your needs. Some wanted response, some wanted outright power, some wanted drag strip times, others wanted track reliablity etc etc etc

Its already been said but you have asked for advice and basically spat in all our faces. We arent the arrogant ones, you are becvause your not getting the answer you want, and that answer is that twin 2835's are going to be responsive, give the most linear power curve and be happy to make 500rwkw on an engine built for 400rwkw. Which coincidentally you dont even know how it was built. I dont know many car enthusiasts that cant rattle off their exact engine specs 5 or more years after they have built their engine.

If you want to hear that 2835's are going to be wicked your on the wrong forum. www.nissansilvia.com is where you need to join up to if you want to hear those resposnses :D

Why hasn't a mod closed this thread yet? This is wasting everyone's time. Good luck with the build champ. Hope the car is "scary" when it's done.

My place of employment saw fit to make me do work for the past 3 hours.

Here now though :geek:

Oh and i think we need a Mexican emoticon to add to the bunch, ill go look for one :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...