Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dudes,

Sick of axle tramp and a vauge rear end on your car? The solution is Pineapples... Pinapples get rid of all axle tramp due to subframe movement.

Q: WTF? Pineapples?

A: Pineapples are a urethane spacer that removes a lot of flex in your rear subframe assembly. They can also be used to change the angle of your rear subframe for hard launches or consistent drifting.

They are resonably easy to install, or if you're in Melbourne I can install for you. And are also easy to remove or change from one setup to the other.

These are identical to the Garage URAS ones imported by Japanese motorsport for $150 + freight.

I have access to these also, but for a lot cheaper $115 inluding freight, and unlike URAS ones, mine have the instructions in ENGLISH!

I have attached a picture of them.

I will only send them via a direct deposit of $115 to my account and then express post them to your door. I have done this method with heaps of people previously without any complaints whatsoever. E-Mail me if you are interested.

[email protected]

Doctor Drift

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3659-pineapples-suit-r32-or-s13/
Share on other sites

Paint 'em black and you wouldn't even know they're there.

I cannot see how they would be illegal, there is no modification required to fit it. I guess it's comparable to using urethane sway bar mounts instead of rubber?

However, I cannot say for sure if they are legal.

Doc.

The difference, although I haven't actually felt in R33, is huge.... The rear of the car is a lot more stable and direct. It's A bit hard to explain, but believe me it's good!!

Call me if you'd like to discuss it further.

Doc.

0411 878 961

sorry to steel your thunder mate but you can get the 'whiteline' ones direct from www.whiteline.com.au with english instuctions. your after part number KCA349 diff lock kit.

They work a treat.

and heres instructions on how to install. Yes its for a Z32 but its the same deal.

http://www.z32.org/html/subframespacers.shtml

skyzerr33,

No problems mate, I'm assuming the whiteline ones are just another copy as well.

Whiteline kit's are around $5 more than I can get them for. If I get a big order I may be able to get them cheaper who knows?

Doc.

Originally posted by Dr_Drift

skyzerr33,  

No problems mate, I'm assuming the whiteline ones are just another copy as well.  

Whiteline kit's are around $5 more than I can get them for. If I get a big order I may be able to get them cheaper who knows?

Doc.

I'd say so (them being copies) and on the price if you can swing a cheaper price thats great you may want to organise a group buy.

Skyzzer33: Good suggestion.

PRANK: You have mail

IF ANYONE WANTS SOME AND THEIR NOT IN A HURRY FOR THEM WE'LL DO A GROUP BUY TO GET THEM CHEAPER.

Ok, I thought 10 would be a reasonable number, so if I get 10 orders I can source them for.....

$90 per Set if you pick them up

$95 Delivered to your Door

If you are definately interested please e-mail me your confirmation.

Doc.

You guys should be able to organise a decent group deal, 'cause I just bought the Whiteline KCA349 kit today for $99.

It comes with simple (there's not much too it!) instructions for "all round", "drift", or "maximum traction".

The same KCA349 kit fits S13, S14, R32-R33 & Z32 Nissans.

I'll let you know what difference they make soon :) Unless someone who's already running the kit beats me to it? Matt Lowth?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...