Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a good mild steel 3inch system from the turbo, a chambered centre muffler, high flow cat and twin 3inch drift pipes at the back will sound absolutely mint!

will be fairly loud though

or if you have a thing shiny cannons, go 3inch turbo back with hi flow cat, middle resonator/hotdog and cannon at rear, will have an okay note but not too loud

i would advise against stainless, its not what its cracked up to be.

just find an exhaust shop near you to make as system, if you cant find anyone decent come up and see me in newcastle!!! Iam an exhaust mechanic and we do lots of skylines!

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive always thought about getting a bov so i could drive past a V8 sat at the lights and scare the crap outa them, lol, isnt that what there for??? lol

Yes, Nissan installed them on their cars to ensure other motorists would crap themselves every time the driver changed gears.... do you read what you write or is it just dribble and hit post....

Yes, Nissan installed them on their cars to ensure other motorists would crap themselves every time the driver changed gears.... do you read what you write or is it just dribble and hit post....

haha, hey i thought that was funny, and refered to having a loud bov not a standard one from the nissan factory, and was directed at v8's meaning V8's that usually try to hose skylines off, not the general public, all in good fun... i have a stock blow off valve and dont scare people with blow off valves, dont you enjoy a bit of fun with the v8 guys???

no offense just having a light hearted input ok?

i would advise against stainless, its not what its cracked up to be.

:ermm:

Stainless is definitely what it is cracked up to be. My exhaust will long outlive the rest of my car. I could leave my car sitting in a field in the rain for 20 years until it is all rusted beyond recognition; my exhaust will still be in mint condition.

Alright thanks I'll get a box if I get one.

I'll YouTube jams when I get home thanks mate :D

That's exactly my point of view mark. I live where it's 90% holdens and 5% non turbo p plate cars. I want one to just say turbo turbo turbo.

That's exactly my point of view mark. I live where it's 90% holdens and 5% non turbo p plate cars. I want one to just say turbo turbo turbo.

Pod filter, 3" dump/front pipe, and metal intake pipe... Induction noise > bov.

:ermm:

Stainless is definitely what it is cracked up to be. My exhaust will long outlive the rest of my car. I could leave my car sitting in a field in the rain for 20 years until it is all rusted beyond recognition; my exhaust will still be in mint condition.

you are incorrect my friend. we have unhappy people with stainless exhaust come into work every single day. Stainless exhausts may "outlast" a mild steel system in terms of a lack of rust but they crack like crazy. Iam forever pulling stainless exhaust of cars to weld up HUGE cracks in exhausts that are only 18 months old. It is very rare that i have to weld up a stress crack in a mild steel system. And dont even get me started on stainless bolts, studs and nuts.

Once you have worked in an exhaust shop you will understand mate!!!

Stock BOV and Pod filter will let everyone know its turboed if thats what worrys you

The only reason I have an aftermarket BOV is cause I was sick of the noise of the standard one. Mines plumback and doesnt sound to loud. The standard one just Shitted me off, but its a good item as anyone on here will confirm

Exhaust wise. I have an X-Force 3" turbo back exhaust, Mild steel $1100 two years ago when I got it. Stainless ones arent much more.

I like the sound of mine, wouldnt hesitate buying an X-Force exhaust again

Pod filter, 3" dump/front pipe, and metal intake pipe... Induction noise > bov.

Yeah I wouldn't mind that rather then getting an ecu as I've discovered from this helpful post.

Is the metal intake pipe the one from the filter to the turbo??

And is the dump/front pipe the one after the turbo on the exhaust side??

Or did I just embarrass myself? :P

Yeah I wouldn't mind that rather then getting an ecu as I've discovered from this helpful post.

Is the metal intake pipe the one from the filter to the turbo??

And is the dump/front pipe the one after the turbo on the exhaust side??

Or did I just embarrass myself? :P

Yes and Yes

Stock BOV and Pod filter will let everyone know its turboed if thats what worrys you

The only reason I have an aftermarket BOV is cause I was sick of the noise of the standard one. Mines plumback and doesnt sound to loud. The standard one just Shitted me off, but its a good item as anyone on here will confirm

Exhaust wise. I have an X-Force 3" turbo back exhaust, Mild steel $1100 two years ago when I got it. Stainless ones arent much more.

I like the sound of mine, wouldnt hesitate buying an X-Force exhaust again

With aftermarket plumb back do you need an aftermarket ecu and tune??

Ok I'll YouTube that too. I've got alot of research to do, I love it! The misses won't though :P.

With aftermarket plumb back do you need an aftermarket ecu and tune??

Ok I'll YouTube that too. I've got alot of research to do, I love it! The misses won't though :P.

I suspect with my setup it would run fine with stock ECU but not 100% sure. Theoretically it should as long as its plumbed back.

If I was gonna get a Plumback BOV for a stock setup Id get a Kompact series Turbosmart bolt on one. They do one for skylines now.

I suspect with my setup it would run fine with stock ECU but not 100% sure. Theoretically it should as long as its plumbed back.

If I was gonna get a Plumback BOV for a stock setup Id get a Kompact series Turbosmart bolt on one. They do one for skylines now.

Yeah that's what I thought.

Ok I'll look at that too :)

Alright thanks I'll get a box if I get one.

I'll YouTube jams when I get home thanks mate :D

That's exactly my point of view mark. I live where it's 90% holdens and 5% non turbo p plate cars. I want one to just say turbo turbo turbo.

cheers Ruxis, glad to hear someone agrees with me, the skyline is the king, and the ford and holdens should be hosed off and put in there place :domokun: lol, not promoting illegal street racing here, :down: so dont get wrong idea, but the skyline is the best car on the street, so everyone should respect the rb!!:worship: maybe a bov is needed to compete with that v8 noise, so be it.. :cheers:

you are incorrect my friend. we have unhappy people with stainless exhaust come into work every single day. Stainless exhausts may "outlast" a mild steel system in terms of a lack of rust but they crack like crazy. Iam forever pulling stainless exhaust of cars to weld up HUGE cracks in exhausts that are only 18 months old. It is very rare that i have to weld up a stress crack in a mild steel system. And dont even get me started on stainless bolts, studs and nuts.

Once you have worked in an exhaust shop you will understand mate!!!

Then they used poor quality steel. My exhaust was made by Kermit. Those in WA will know what I'm talking about.

I'm quite good mates with Kermit, he has shown me pictures of some jobs that he has done. Race cars that have crashed at stupid speeds and the only things that survived are his custom stainless intake piping and his exhausts. He uses absolute top quality stainless (shameless plug for a top bloke :P ) and offers lifetime guarantee. Go around to your exhaust shops and see how many of them offer a lifetime warranty on all their work.

I would definitely buy yourself a cheap pod and run it without a box just to try it. My car came with a shitty supercheap brand pod and runs the stock rubber intake piping and the stock bov is plenty loud. Imo it was a little too loud, (being people always looking around etc when i drove past)

you are incorrect my friend. we have unhappy people with stainless exhaust come into work every single day. Stainless exhausts may "outlast" a mild steel system in terms of a lack of rust but they crack like crazy. Iam forever pulling stainless exhaust of cars to weld up HUGE cracks in exhausts that are only 18 months old. It is very rare that i have to weld up a stress crack in a mild steel system. And dont even get me started on stainless bolts, studs and nuts.

Once you have worked in an exhaust shop you will understand mate!!!

And I'll wager that they are the $400 cheap shit crap quality stainless

And I'll wager that they are the $400 cheap shit crap quality stainless

Exactly.

To be on topic; OP here is are some clips so you can hear my exhaust. Forgive the poor quality, were both taken with an iPhone4 and it's a bit hard to hold onto the phone at WOT lol :P

This one is at idle:

The camera makes it seem quieter than it really is.

This one is an in-car vid while driving:

Didn't quite get to redline, caught up to the car in front too quickly lol. Again, apologies for the poor quality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...