Lewis Engine 2.2 Stroker Rb20

[N1 RB26]

How do you get caught with engine numbers being ground off? If you grind them off and restamp them then there is nothing to get caught with, grind it smooth and there is no evidence.

roy is right there is some sort of x-ray they use it doesn't matter how smooth you grind it will come up with marks to show it may or may not of been grinded and if they think it's sus they impound your car and if they have to rip out your engine to get a better look they will and that's in SA

[R32Abuser]

Dunno if its been said already, but when you order a new RB20/25/26/30 block from the factory, the flat face where the engine number is stamped is a clean flat surface with no engine number on it. It is expected that the buyer/builder of the new block stamps the required engine number into the block. Hence, the ownus is on the builder to stamp the "correct" number on the block.

There are tests to reveal if the "grind & re stamp" process has occured. However, I'm yet to hear of a single story of anyone modifying their car in such a way and receiving this kind of treatment.

Edited September 15, 2011 by R32Abuser

[Bl4cK32]

I am going on what I have been told, I think they do mag particle test or something. You need to machine a fair bit off to get to a level where you can stamp the new number without any metallurgical evidence that there was an original number there. The give away is the hieght of the casting where the stamp is.

Seen it done ages ago, i think they used acid etching. Similar to how they recover serial numbers that have been ground off guns. The stamped area of the metal is denser and the acid eats away the less dense metal and reveals the serial number.

[N1 RB26]

Dunno if its been said already, but when you order a new RB20/25/26/30 block from the factory, the flat face where the engine number is stamped is a clean flat surface with no engine number on it. It is expected that the buyer/builder of the new block stamps the required engine number into the block. Hence, the ownus is on the builder to stamp the "correct" number on the block.

There are tests to reveal if the "grind & re stamp" process has occured. However, I'm yet to hear of a single story of anyone modifying their car in such a way and receiving this kind of treatment.

i never modified the engine but bought a stolen and recovered 300zx z32 from nsw brought it down to SA they thought it was sus imponded the car and i didn't see it for 6 weeks cause they had to check engine number hadn't been re ground, everything wa fine of course cause nsw had cleared it but SA transport just wanted to be cops

[N1 RB26]

i never knew these forums changed "p.i.g.s." to cops automatically lol

Edited September 15, 2011 by Forged R32

[Roy]

I am sures its not common. But the point is:

1) Its wrong to say that you can throw an RB25 in your car and just re-stamp the engine block with your RB20 number hoping nobody pics the plenums etc

2) If you throw an RB25 in your car you depending on state, have to have a certified engineer look at the conversion. The catch is they will look at everything, not just the transplant, So if they are not happy with your ride height, exhaust, ECU, front mount location, intercooler, carbon fibre bonnet etc then these can all be stumbling blocks to getting engineering

There are ways around it and compromises...we should maybe post up a tutorial thread by those that have done it from start to finish in respective states.

[N1 RB26]

+1 would be good to have a run through of what people have done to get there conversons engineered...only other option is to be mates with an engineer lol

[Bl4cK32]

we should maybe post up a tutorial thread by those that have done it from start to finish in respective states.

I volunteer for the SA section:

1. Do conversion

2. Get pulled over.

[Rolls]

+1 would be good to have a run through of what people have done to get there conversons engineered...only other option is to be mates with an engineer lol

I'll make a thread about my experiences in SA if you want. With engineering you can't just get any old engineer to sign off on it, they have to be a mechanical engineer, they have to have chartered status and then they have to be certified by the RTA to sign off on things, even then they often only get certified for certain things, eg chassis mods, engine mods, etc.

Edited September 15, 2011 by Rolls

[N1 RB26]

rb25 conversion simialr to 26? same things have to get changed etc?? yeah would love to know how sa is cheers

[Roy]

Chartered Mech Engin bit is easy...when i asked a friend who is a Vic Roads engineer he told me you need industry experience. I dont get that working in the pharmaceutical industry

[bubba]

+1 would be good to have a run through of what people have done to get there conversons engineered...only other option is to be mates with an engineer lol

Make it look as stock or unassuming as possible.. no high mount this, no bling that..

[dahandfull]

exposed pod filter wouldn't help the cause up here...

[N1 RB26]

what bout relocated oil filters and braided lines i heard some where that there not legal...is this true??

[Rolls]

what bout relocated oil filters and braided lines i heard some where that there not legal...is this true??

In SA I would call regency park as they handle all defect and modified car inspections etc, find out who the equivalent is in your state and call them, they will have a list of all ADRs and be able to tell you what is required to make it legal.

I imagine the concept of an external oil cooler/filter is not illegal (why would it be) but it is more the issue of it being improperly installed and causing injury to a pedestrian if it leaks or somehow causing a fire hazard.

You could also try calling a registered automotive engineer in your state that can sign off on engine/car modifications, I'm sure they could point you in the right direction, would probably be far more helpful than the gov organisations as well.

[bubba]

exposed pod filter wouldn't help the cause up here...

Over here it just needs to be secured by two brackets. It's not going to remain exposed either, once I'm done with the shakedown the pod will be getting covered and I'll make up some custom heatshields for the manifold and dump.

As for oil coolers/filter relocators, I would imagine that as long as your fittings and hoses met the relevant AS for pressurised fluid couplings (no idea what that is) and as Rolls mentioned, the installation isn't dodgy, there shouldn't be an issue?

That is really the main thing that I have found with modifying cars, if you do it properly - and it shows (quality welding, well thought out mods, no dodgy corners cut) then things will generally go a lot easier for you.

[N1 RB26]

is there anyway to engineer a lowered riding height? or is it just the minimum height and that's it...cause the minimum heights here in SA for 32's is gay it's 345 for front and 355 for rear which gives it a gay raked look and would much rather it 335 all round cause that sits nice

[Rolls]

http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

this is the document you want

http://www.infrastru...n_2011%20v3.pdf

mainly these bits is what you have to comply with

"When lowering a vehicle, the ride height of an unladen vehicle must not be changed by more

than one third of the working travel of the suspension from its original height to a rigid bump or

rebound position specified by the manufacturer. The suspension bump and rebound positions

are measured with any deformable bump or rebound stops removed. The original relationship

between the front and rear suspension heights must not be changed and therefore the front and

rear suspensions must be both raised or both lowered by the same amount"

You must also not exceed the minimum clearance which I believe is 100mm from the lowest part of the car. Also if you change suspension geometry in the process this has to be rectified.

Edited September 17, 2011 by Rolls

[Shitbox]

conversions are always going to be popular, i just want to know the end result of the Lewis 2.2

[Bl4cK32]

is there anyway to engineer a lowered riding height? or is it just the minimum height and that's it...cause the minimum heights here in SA for 32's is gay it's 345 for front and 355 for rear which gives it a gay raked look and would much rather it 335 all round cause that sits nice

There was a good post ages ago by SK back a few years that explained the point of having the 32 sit at the legal height. Regardless of looks, the 32s suspension doesnt work the way it should with excessive wear on bushes (more so than even the std height wear). Given the roads in 99% of au are not the best (unless we live in canberra ) i dont know why someone would want suspension that would give a rough as guts ride, as well as f**k out your bushes so damn fast, other than "it looks fully sick bro"