Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've done some searching and am finding it difficult to get a "decent" top mount manifold without the external gate setup as I wish to run a hks 2530 or my rb25 neo turbo with highflowed internals. Manifold would be for a rb20det. Any ideas on a good brand that won't see me swearing after 3 months. :)

I'm not aware of any that exist.

Why spend 1200-1400 on a manifold when there is next to no gain?

A 2530 is only going to make 230rwkw at the most, which is well within the stock items capability.

If you were talking 260+ then you'd perhaps think about it simply because the TD06 kit comes with one.

My custom made high mount manifold only cost me like $1100, but that was with external gate, I'm sure he could have just as easily have done it with out it.

You can always just put a plate over the external gate flange until you get one, mate of mine did that when he was waiting for his new turbo to arrive.

Yeah I guess the hks 2530 is a little small for 260+kw. Never read much into the td06 but found the kit here http://nozzs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=146 for $1250 which is a bargain if we are talking bang for buck. Saves hassles with finding a new turbo/ manifold/ extended dump pipe/ extended oil line ect. I think it might be my best option. Save a few dollars for cams. :)

You do realise that's a copy kit yes? With what looks like a nasty cheap manifold... All i can foresee is disaster with that knock off kit...

The proper Trust kit, that comes with a decent manifold, costs a LOT more than 1200.

Haha I know but I'm sure there's someone out there who will buy it one day :P the Greddy kit would be 1200 each part. But I'm thinking it might be worth it. Cheap mods cost more I'n the long run. Trust me I'm forever looking for replacement parts for all the cheap mods on my car from the previous owner. Lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...