Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the process of istalling a sabelt 6 point harness. The shoulder straps are easy peazy off the harness bar, and no problems with the gut straps either.

Went to mount the crotch strap and struck a snag. The threaded end of the eye bolts are not long enough to go through the double skin floor on a 33 skyline.

My idea is to drill a hole in the top then use a hole saw on the bottom so as to enable me to put a nut on the eye bolt using a socket. Failing that, Are there longer eye bolts (rated) available for the job. Anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366848-6-point-harness-issue/
Share on other sites

Not too bad if you have them adjusted correctly, ie, lap belts pulling down onto your thighs hard, then everything else adjusted from there.

Most guys run into issues when they have the buckle up round their guts, that's far too high, should be sorta just above your package.

Not too bad if you have them adjusted correctly, ie, lap belts pulling down onto your thighs hard, then everything else adjusted from there.

Most guys run into issues when they have the buckle up round their guts, that's far too high, should be sorta just above your package.

Make sure the crutch strap is tight. cause if it's not you can slide forward in the seat under breaks, and your balls will catch the weight of your body.

I have been experimenting with different positions and yeah, You are both on the money. Nice and low and firm seems to be the best option.

I feel like a seat with arms, They dont allow the body to move around much but I guess thats the idea.

At the risk of sounding like a wanker, once I realised that I should run my harnesses tight, light, REALY tight, I reckon my driving improved massively. It's like you're completely part of the car, no moving around at all.

It's also not remotely uncomfortable, its funny, but once you're moving you don't even notice how tight you are in the car.

Better in case of a big acco too I'd like to think.

yep, first time you drive a car on a circuit with a proper seat and proper harness you can't believe how much better it is. I reckon going from basic seat with belt to proper seat and harness is probably worth up to a sec a lap, but more than that it means you can do lap after lap at the same pace. with you not having to brace youself in various parts of the cabin and not gripping the wheel so tight you can drive with your fingertips and toes and all the feel of what the car is doing is magnified 10X. best thing you can do to a road car to drive it on the track is fit good seat and harness.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...