Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've picked up a factory plumb back R33 BOV to put on my S13 (CA so no BOV factory) and I'm in the process of working out where best to put it.

I can't easily find an R33 engine bay pic that shows me where the air rejoins the system after flowing through the BOV on an R33 but here's what I'm thinking.

From what I understand the ideal location for the BOV itself is as close to the throttle body as possible but this won't be possible on my car without a lengthy return pipe crossing the engine bay (CAs have a forward facing plenum and I have a front mount).

So the BOV itself would go on the hot pipe then merge it back in before the front mount, as there is a bung/hose on the cooler pipe already. This would leave a pipe run of maybe 60-70cms and would be neater. I could also mount the bov on the piping on the cold side of the cooler then run it back under the cooler to the other outlet, from the engine bay all you'd see would be the feed from the intake going to the top of the BOV.

Does the length of the return pipe matter? Will it affect how useful it is mounting it so far away from the throttle body if I go the hot pipe route?

In my head the shorter the return pipe the better as there's less additional volume added to the intake that requires pressurising. On the other hand, if the return is too small there may be be enough volume for the vented air to escape into when the valve opens - but this seems moot as that side would technically already be pressurised?

Some clarification would be great. My 33 GTS-T and GT-R both had factory BOVs in place and remained that way so this is a bit new to me.

Cheers

You think about stuff far too much Dan :P

A GTR BOV setup is behind the driver side headlight area, so it too goes cross-bay, back to the turbo side.

There is no issue with a long return pipe. Plumb it in between turbo inlet and AFM.

Ideally you want it as close to the T/B as possible, but it's not a show stopper. I've run BOVs pre-cooler without issue.

Well I like to make sure I have a grasp on something before I go cutting holes in things :D

"Plumb it in between turbo inlet and AFM"

Soon as I read that I face palmed because it seems so obvious now.

Will be interesting to see how I go about that as my intake between the turbo and afm is still the factory plastic one. Will have to see what my options are.

Just make a metal one.

The AFM has already measured that air, so it expects it and you cant do it again.

Hence why a lot of cars stall when people put ATMO BOVs on - car expects the measured air to be in the system and then suddenly it's being starved.

yeah the bov outlet must be feeding back in before the turbo but after the AFM. no good doing it post turbo.

as far as where to mount the bov? anywhere on the cooler piping is fine really. mounting it post intercooler is a good idea though. so somewhere between cooler outlet and the throttle body.

Also when plumbing it back in, try to point it towards the turbo inlet rather than straight down or towards the AFM. If the air hits the AFM, it will run like arse.

I had a metal intake that would stall every single time air flowed through the BOV. The way the pipe was designed could result in air hitting the afm and the engine filling up some fuel for the air causing the engine to stall because the throttle is closed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...